Modeling topic
Rio Grande freight operations
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone knew or could point me in the direction of info regarding operation on the standard gauge Moffat Line or Joint line circa 1950-1965. I know it was considered a bridge route. Does that mean no peddler or way freight?
Any info would be great.
Thanks,
David
inherited locos
Joe, et al, I have recently switched back to my roots as you did. I inherited some SP Sd's supposedly 40-2, 40T-2, and 45's. They are all older Athearn with open motors. My questions are: What are length/detail differences in those models, ie: spotting features. and also I intend to install sound and lighting details as in your Volume 3. Will I be able to run very slow starts, or will cogging prevent that, and should I re-power with new can motors? thank you, John Colley, Port Townsend, WA/Sonoma, CA

Protecting against UV light
I have been reading Ben Kaur's article in the July MRH (3rd Place in the $500 layout contest) and noted his comments regarding the damage that UV light will make to your investment. I noted his rather extreme measure of covering the window with sheet foam and blackout curtains. I also noted his planning consideration of having the layout room available for the primary purpose of sleeping - bedroom perhaps?
CN Longview Sub
Well it has been almost a year since my last post, so I thought I would give an update as to my progress on the CN Longview Sub. The first post and a brief outline of the layout can be found here. http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/8764

DCC Conversion - Small N-Scale 0-6-0 Saddle Tank
My younger brother, who is in the early stages of building a new, large N-scale layout, recently asked me (as the family's DCC and electronics expert) to convert one of his older locomotives to DCC operation.

Converting loco from DCC to DC
I have a Bachmann On30 Forney that I want to convert from the OEM DCC Soundtraxx decoder to straight DC. This is what I think I need to do and would like input as to whether this is correct:
Making resistive wheel set questions
I have some questions about making resistive wheel sets:
Looking at Intermountain wheel sets, it has a blackened surface. To attach the resistor, does the black need to be removed?
Is there a non-blackened wheel set that would be better to use?
Some mention soldering to the wheel, how does that not melt the insulator?
Scale is HO. Wheel size is 33".
I am looking at the bulk packs as the best route, I have a very large fleet of Stewart / Bowser and Athearn BB cars.
Any suggestions are appreciated!

White glue vs matt medium for gluing ballast - your opinion please
In another of my threads about using 2" foam as sub-roadbed it was suggested to use matt medium instead of white glue to adhere the ballast with the reasoning that matt medium remains flexible thus transferring less vibration / noise than white glue. Your experience and thoughts are requested. Thanks!

Destroying the Illusion
I’m talking about the moment when the thought: “Is it a model?” turns into “Yep, it’s a model”……….
I am curious about what people think are the primary culprits when it comes to realism killers.
This isn’t intended to be an opportunity to criticise people’s work but more a way of identifying improvement opportunities.
As Prof Klyzr says “Aim to Improve” and there never was a better bit of advice.
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