My recent posts dealt with realistic train length and the importance of keeping the space in front of the electrical panel clear.  This post deals with the reality of the space that I have and the constraints that I need to work in.  My last design not only blocked the electrical panel, it also went across the doorway at three different heights.  There were benefits. It was an around the walls design with a 6' x 12' peninsula up the middle.  This gave me approximately 100' of mainline run per deck.

Recently somewhere, and I can't remember where, I saw an article about a new erasure type track cleaner that is not as abrasive as the old style Track Brite and others and was wondering if someone else has seen this and knows where one can get some of them, thanks.

I know; I know; the're old, but I really really want to convert one of my 6 (count 'em) Rivarossi NKP Bershires to DCC with sound. I got most of them for less than $15 at a yard sale a few years ago.

Can anyone walk me through parts and "labor" to convert one of these pole-type motorized engines to DCC? New Berkshires at $400 plus are a bit out of my range and I hate to have to give up these engines for scrap or something.

I have come up with a plan to extend my layout to include an additional 30 miles of track (actually about 12'), allowing me to model the entire in some fashion.  However, doing so will require that I cross a doorway, hall, and extend into the living room with removable benchwork.  With the extension in place, following a train will require a pair of duck-unders (or staying ducked for about 4') beneath track set at a 50" elevation, and about 4' of hallway reduced to 24" of usable width.  Actual switching could all take place in the open space of the li