I have tried adding a DB150 to my layout to boost power to the 6 power districts I have. Here is some data to consider:

1. The boosted has its own power supply and is connected to my DCS 51 Zephyr via loco net cables which are correct. 

2. Toggles on the booster are set correctly for my HO layout. The booster is connected to Track A and Track B correctly through PSX 1's for the West main and the Port area which are the two power districts it should control.

Scratching my head over intermittant running on my layout of engines. I am running a DCS 51 [Digitrax Zephyr Xtra] (one engine at a time) and experiencing stop-n-go performance after a short, smooth start. Pauses are for several seconds and then restores and continues for a longer length; pauses for a second or two and then continues smoothly the rest of the way around the layout.

Does anyone have a solution for MTH Berkshires and some 2-8-0's with the pony wheels jumping off the track at frogs or diamonds and causing derailments? It's driving me crazy. One minute thewy are sailing along smoothly at scale speed with a few cars and a cabin and the next trip around the layout they derail at every mainline switch and diamond.

I think it's the fact that there is not enough weight forward to keep them on the rails, but I'm at a loss as how to correct the problem if that is it. Any ideas that work? Thanks.

Suggestions please. I have a small "tub" of a product that is applied to plastic brick to give the appearance of grout. Coming out of storage, it is a bit thick, but pliable, and I am in need of ideas to make it more liquid to apply. Of course, I no longer have the directions and there is no label. If I remember correctly, it is brushed on, dries and "wiped" with  a Q-tip or cloth leaving the grout and coming off the brick.

Does anyone recognize this product? If you have instructions and ideas on saving this stuff, let me know. Thanks.

Once again, I do not have any "electric mojo" to do this without your help. The advice for the Shinnohara switches worked out great. Now, I'm on the last leg of wiring my railroad.

Here is the basic info: I have one lead track coming to the turntable. The turntable is a manual one with two wipers underneath (one wire from each soldered to the rails on the bridge) and there are three enginehouse tracks. None of this is wired at present.

Have "inherited" a number of #6 Shinnohara switches from a dismantled layout. The will be cut in to my mainline where I have #4's to give me a smoother transition to my yards. These switches are in great shape but have a drop wire that has me stumped. It is connected to the outside of the frog guard rail on the diverging track. Have no idea why or what it would attach to. See photos attached.

Also, are these switches dcc friendly or do I have to have insulated joiners on the two inside rails like I do with my yard tracks? Thanks for your help.

I have received the tower lights for both of the yards on my layout. They came with separate resistors that need to be soldered to each light. Does it matter which of the two wires  (assuming one is a positive lead and one a negative) the resistor is soldered to? Once done, I plan on sliding shrink tubing over the resistor to prevent damage.  

I have installed a Heljan Manual turntable with split ring wipers. My question is whether or not to use an AR1 from the approach tracks (2 of them) to the AR and then the output side going to the wipers.

If I understand the wiper function, they should be wired to the main power; the approach tracks wired to the main power; and the stall tracks (all lefts) and (all rights) wired to the main power same as the approach tracks. The engine should cross to the stall track correctly.

OK, before I go back and purchase the other device previously suggested, I'm willing to listen to some suggestions to try and salvage what I have. The AR is supposed to control a Wye from my West Yard back to the main which curves around behind the yard returning Eastbound and thus, changing polarity.

The wiring drops from the main line and the Wye are set up correctly according to the instruction sheet and a drawing from the previous posting responses. Here is my problem:

Need an electrical guru to help me understand lighting of buildings and signals etc.

I have a number of different lights I am dealing with and not sure if (and what kind) of resistor to put in line if itis needed. I am wiring building lights to a power pack accessories port  - plus and minus wires to a plus and minus barrier strip and wires from building lights to the appropriate strip. so far, I have been using those little lights with the black base on a sticky pad. They seem to work well.