Trackwork
What is the truth about Peco code 100 "large" turnout number equivelent?
Apparently the truth is a bit fuzzy on the Peco code 75 and 100 turnouts. According to a PDF turnout information document, actually all three - small, medium and large Peco turnouts, in the above code rail types - have 12 degree frogs. That seems odd because small, medium and large Peco code 100 turnouts seem to have varying sharpness of turnout curve radius's. Here is the link to the PDF I am referring to:
Fast Tracks Turnout gaps
I am about to embark on a 20 turnout building spree. Rail arrived today! Fast Tracks suggests using a Jeweler's saw with a fine tooth blade to make gaps for frogs. I am wondering if this is the best way? Have others used this or what have they used? It isn't an expensive tool but if I don't have to buy one I won't. Although I love an excuse to buy another tool. lol
GregW66
Another track cleaning post -- can you ever get it clean?
After a few months of not running my trains as I worked on scenery my track has gotten very dirty. Yesterday I spent a lot of time cleaning it. I used a brightboy, then metal polish, then alcohol and finally Act 6006 track cleaner. No matter what I did I could never seem to get a clean rag when I wiped the track at the end. I took one 18 inch segment and spent 15 minutes on it and still never go a clean rag when I wiped the track for the last time. Is my experience typical or am I missing something in my cleaning?
Turnout Control Options (manual vs electric)
Hi everyone,
I am making some considerations before starting to lay tracks on my new layout. How to control the turnouts.
I am considering three options.
1. Manual everywhere (cannot have fascia led control and cannot link turnouts with signals)
2. Tortoise on mainline, manual elsewhere. Here i ll be able to have panels & signals for mainline only.
3. Tortoise everywhere (possibly the best solution, but is it an overkill to put tortoise everywhere including industrial sidings?)
ALPINE RAILROAD IN NJ-LOOKING FOR SUGGESTIONS
I am asking the MHR community for some help in solving a problem I created with my choice of layout scenery. My layout was originally conceptualized 25 yrs ago as a much smaller layout with no intention of adding a backdrop or anything like that. I started this current version with the old idea then expanded it because I had the room to do so. Although I do plan on adding a backdrop at some point, I didn't take this into consideration when I stuck with the basics of how I originally thought the scenery would look.
ALPINE RAILROAD IN NJ-EVOLUTION IN PICS PART VII
When I last posted I had just completed adding rocks to the newest section of my layout. I flew to CA for vacation on 12/27 and am still here now in LA on business until Feb. Of course that means I don't get to work on the layout but before I left I took a few more photos to share after I had colored all the remaining white plaster with Woodland Scenics earth pigment. It really makes a huge difference. Even without grass or trees the layout starts to look more realistic.
1939 Railway Maintenance Cyclopedia Excerpt: Standard Lengths of Rails
A couple of weeks, I posted a topic on Railway Engineering and Maintenance Cyclopedias (http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/32050). I really enjoy the once-contemporary detail contained in these and decided others might as well, so I've transcribed a couple of paragraphs from the chapter on rail.
N scale: Code 55 vs Code 80
For those who are in N scale, what do you prefer using code 55 or code 80 rails ? Pros and cons ? I am asking because I am planning to make an HOn30 layout. I am going to hand laid the tracks and before buying the rails I would like to get opinions from those that have experiences using the above tracks.
Thank You
Inexpensive best code 100 turnouts for staging?
So I am in the very early planning stages for a new larger layout. I did save all the track from my last layout and most of it is in very good condition for re-use. On my last layout I used code 100 track in staging because it was less expensive and appearance isn't important there.
Track Popping Up - Fixes?
As humidity levels go down, wood benchwork shrinks. And sometimes, it shrinks enough to cause track to pop up. Any suggestions on how best to fix this? Unfortunately, the track is on a bridge - and on a slight curve (so cutting in rail gaps will risk introducing lateral kinks in the rail). Maybe just push it back down and secure with contact cement?
Any tips/suggestions/guidance most welcome!
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