The question is how to seal all the the wood parts to prevent warping. Resins are too hard to sand and they obscure the wood look and feel. Water based glues allow warping right away. Whatever sealant you use may react with the finish paint you use. These questions go on and on and on. Feel free to augment or change the title to correctly ask this question. My ultimate goal is to be able to use a combination of paints, powders and pan pastels after assembling the kit using any combination of adhesives to do the assembly.

 
   While building a row of store front buildings for a small downtown scene on my layout, I noticed none of the two and three story buildings I chose had any visible means of access to the upper floors on the front of the building. Normally there would be an entry way door to one side or the other of the first floor business, but none of the buildings I have built have one. I have six different building models, not one has a door for upper floor access.  My buildings are all kits from either Woodland Scenic’s/DPM or Walthers Cornerstone. 

Good morning,

I have a question about clearance from the wall(s) of two buildings to the rail on the siding.

These HO scale buildings are getting lights and final placement on the layout today, hopefully, and I'm wavering on exact placement. Google search has offered up no dimensions.

We're set in 1973, the locos are GP-7 or U-23-B. Grain is in covered hoppers or a couple of old boxcars.

Picked up a Scale Trains Operator w/DC only. Installed a TCS-T1 decoder in it that I had laying around.  Put it in a consist in the lead for the lighting effects with a sound unit trailing. Headlight is nice and bright, but can't get the ditch lights to work.

I am thinking maybe remove the wiring from the board going to the ditch lights and attach to new decoder. T1 says it's a two function. Does that mean the green & purple wires are of no use?