I've heard of wiring a resistor across a programing track, to assist in programing certain (sound?) decoders.  So far, I've never had to bother, but I'm building myself a proper test/programing rig, and I'd like to know if it's worth including a switch for a resistor.  Is it something that's no longer needed, or does it still come in handy?  Basically, is it worth the effort of including it in the design?

In the near future I'll be kitbashing the Walter's "Gas Plant" into Palmer Abestos. I believe it will possible to see through the window up to the underside of the flat roof and I'd like to have roof trusses to add realism. I could scratch build some, but I wondering if trusses are available as a detail item from a supplier. I've searched and haven't found any. I could tap my friend Michael to laser cut some for me, but I would have to sketch them up which would take me longer than building them myself. Any help will be appreciated.

So I am at a bit of a loss when it comes to the two turntables I need - one for Dover NH and one for Conway. According to the B&M diagrams I found, both were 85' turntables.  I am trying to avoid spending a fortune and so old brands are just as fine with me as newer ones (I use eBay a lot), and manual is fine though electric would be nicer. (I might go newer and expensive if there is no other choice, but I'd rather not spend over $500 just for two turntables.)

I finally finished my thing-a-week locomotive! Here is CATS #12, a small 'modernish' electric locomotive. She is based off of an IHC, HO gauge GE 50-ton centercab chassis. As shown in other blog posts I have made, the cab is scratch-made from styrene, pantograph came from an IHC GG1 bought LONG ago, painted by hand. YES, I know I need to redo the weathering on the chassis. You don't realize how heavy the weathering is and how...coarse it is until you photograph the model. :P