Locos and rolling stock
BN Snow Dozer Scratch build
About 4 years ago I started my first major scratch building rolling stock project. Four years later, I'm still not done, but I'm making faster progress than before. A little background in the model, and the prototype to follow in the next post to keep this one on the short side. I have been in large scale 1/29 scale, G Guage for some 15 plus years, but I never really got serious about the scratchbuilding rolling stock (I have a huge scratch built feed mill I'm working on too; 7'x 6'x 4') until this project.
Coupler color?
Hi folks, I'm just finishing up 12 tichy 40ft flats. I painted the entire car, including trucks and wheels.
Now I'm just curios what is the consensus on the base color for the couplers. Then I was thinking of a top coat / dry rush of a dirt color.
What are some of the coupler painting techniques you all use?
How much weathering after a year? 3 years?
I'm modeling 1929 in Northern Maine, midsummer. How weathered would a car that's only a year or so old be? Clearly it wouldn't be brand new--not after a winter's passed in New England--but it wouldn't be too badly chewed up. I've got a Tichy ARA 40 flat that entered production in 1928 flatcar finished and ready to paint and then weather. Since flatcar loads get attention, I want it to look GOOD.
Which is worse...too light or too heavy?
I'm building a Tichy 40' flat car, and am just about at the point where I add weight. No problem, normally--the weight provided seems about right. But, I'm going to be putting loads on it, and taking them off again. Am I better off with the car being a bit too light when empty, or two heavy when loaded? Some loads are light, some are made of heavier materials.
Intermountain F7A/B decoder type?
I just got a new F7A/B set from Intermountain with sound. The decoder is a LokSound, but I can't find exactly which model. The locomotive isn't responding at all, even on the default address 3. Taking a guess as to type on JMRI DecoderPro hasn't worked so far when trying to program a new address. All the other locos are running fine, and JMRI reads all their info, so it is definitely something with this loco. I'd like to know exactly which model decoder it is so I can tell DecoderPro to see if that helps at all. Open to other suggestions too.
Steam Tender Lettering
Steam locomotive tenders often had safety lettering and water /coal capacities on the rear. I'd like to add this to a USRA Light 2-8-2. Are there any photos or diagrams showing these additions?
Where to buy AMvs rail rod?
I would like guidelines and websites to purchase material for making AMV's and Crossings only the rail without Sleeper,
If you can help me.
thank you
Plastic Couplers
I've always used Kadee #5 couplers with the odd exception of a more exotic Kadee when needed. I have a Bachmann 2-8-0 with plastic couplers I am assuming are Bachmann E-Z Mates. Kadee recommends a #36 and #38 coupler (different shank lengths). It is thier plastic coupler. Having never used a Kadee plastic coupler are they better than the stock E-Z Mates that are on it now?
GregW66
40' only size box car for grain in 50's and 60's?
Was the 40' box car the only sized box car used for hauling grain during the 50's and 60's, or were 50' box cars also used? I am wanting to determine the placement of my Walthers Prairie grain elevator on my module and would like to have room for two cars.
Thanks for the help!
50' cars (I know these cars have no roof hatches)
Modern Era - No Ditch Lights
My current plan for my model railroad is a modern (current) era switching layout. I currently have two Athearn Genesis MP15AC locomotives that I am planning on using. Neither of these locomotives has ditch lights. They would be used strictly inside an industrial park setting, not crossing any "public" streets. Would ditch lights be required in this type of setting? If so, how should I add them? I don't particularly care if they work or not.
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