Track and electrical/DCC
Best way to build a number display?
I have an idea for semi-automating OS's.
At each end of every siding, and the leaving switches of yards there would be a key pad. As a train passed the locations the crew would key in the last digit of the engine number. The dispatcher would have board with a schematic of the railroad with number indicator at each of the locations where there was a keypad. When the trains sent the engine number it would create a bell noise, then display the digit at the location where the kepad was activated.
Digitrax Super Chief Duplex
I have been after a remote controller for some time.I have a Hornby Elite DCC witch was the bees knee at the time.Since then i have invested in a Digitrax super chief 5 amp unit with a Duplex remote control throttle.My problem is the instruction book is over complicated does any one know of any vidoes out there that shows how to program a loco 03 to the address that i want. I have a separate program track set up and wired into the system Hoping some can help
Dawson from downunder
TSU-1000 function output rating?
Out of curiosity, what is the (voltage/amperage) output of the Soundtraxx TSU-1000 headlight function wires?
I wish to use 1.5v, 75mA bulbs and want to fit the right resistor.
Thanks in advance,
Skoti.
How to power turntable and add slop?
Any ideas how to purposefully add slop or slip to a small gear drive?
My Walthers turntable is currently operated manually, fingerstrong. I use rare earth magnets to align the bridge perfectly 100% of the time and the tracks are held strongly in alignment. This only works if there is slack in the mechanism.
If i add a geared motor the gears would allow no slack. They would stop it short or long. The gear train needs a little give in it.
current keeper for loksound
For those of you that use Loksound decoders, have you found the need to use a keep alive, such as their PowerPack? I see that it is north of $40 while SoundTrax CurrentKeeper is about half of that. I am not sure why there is such a difference in cost.
Best Regards,
John Emley
Turnout issue
Hello,
I hope I can receive some help as i've been knocking my head against the wall on this one. I thought this would be an easy spur install.
Has anyone encountered glue or ballast that seems to have a bit of electrical conductivity?
I have recently started ballasting my layout, and since I added the ballast, I have had a problem with current seeping between the rails. I have measured the resistance, and instead of getting an open circuit reading between the rails, I seem to get a very high resistance, but enough to have blown my Roco DCC command station.
I am using normal pva wood glue, thinned down 50/50 with water and ballast products that is available in South Africa.
Would like to hear if anyone else has experienced similar problems and what can be done to fix it.
Lift-out wiring connections
I have progressed far enough on the lower level of the layout to start thinking about the lift-out section in front of the attic access door. I have the section built, but I'm not sure how I'm going to plug and unplug the section as needed.
I think I'm going to use stranded wire and male/female speaker plugs for each buss line.
What are other folks doing to connect and disconnect the buss at lift-outs, swings and drop sections?
Quick DCC Question
Before I spend the loot, I am a bit confused.
I'm interested in this item:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Bachmann-HO-51004-4-4-0-WARR-p/bac-51004.htm
I note that it is touted to be "DCC ready". I will be wanting to put DCC/Sound within it, perhaps one of the new Tsunami 2 decoders and a sugar cube speaker.
Here's my confusion, and thus question:
The engine is touted to be "DCC ready" with an "8 Pin" connection. However, I thought a "9 pin" connection is the standard?
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