Locos and rolling stock

DrJolS's picture

Steam Boiler is Different fron Smokebox and Firebox

From my models of PRR steamers plus photos of other steamers, I've gotten used to the boiler being fairly dark - blacker in a B&W photo, compared to the smokebox and skirts of the firebox which are more gray or silvery than blackish.

For my current project I have been looking at photos of locos built in the late 1800's. In many of them the boiler is more gray, and the smokebox is blacker.

Please offer wisdom on why the difference.

DrJolS

HO MOW Equipment

Help Please! I am new to the HO scale hobby. I would like to purchase prototype HO models of MOW equipment that are of high quality. I have identified Lacey Models as one source. I would appreciate any other suggestions of who makes prototypical/highly detailed HO MOW models. I have not been able to find any of latter using several browser searches.

Thanks!

Carl Chancey

Hyannis, MA

Atlas Yellow Box RS-11 Brake Wheel?

Mine came back from the DCC/Sound shop missing its brake wheel.

Any of you have one or two in your spare parts stash??

(Worth a try asking.)

Andre

duckdogger's picture

Worm Gears

As demonstrated by my blogs, I enjoy upgrading old Proto locos with new drive train as an integral part of installing new motors, drive train, LEDs, and DCC sound. Most worm gears have either round or squarish bearings of common sizes regardless of manufacturer. Except one.

Couplers

Thirty years ago I decided to give up on horn hook couplers and switch to Kadee.  I had read someplace back then that on locomotives you needed to use the plastic #28 instead of the metal #5 due to insulation/polarity reasons.  I was recently looking at the conversion tables at Kadee's website and noticed that for most locomotives they are recommending the #5.

Is the need for the #28 something that was never really necessary or did something change?

Rick

Locomotive numbering and logos

I recently got this Atlas switcher for use in my steel mill area.

 

I now want to paint an old Athearn BB S12 to be an extra switcher in the area.  The black paint and yellow rail won't be any problem.  I'm sure I can find a decal for the numbers someplace.  What has me scratching my head is the USS logo.  I have some of those in blue but not yellow.

kirkifer's picture

Walthers metal wheels ? Anyone using them ?

I am almost exclusively an Intermountain Wheel user... Unfortunately, they have gotten stupidly expensive lately. I think they have gone up about 35% in price over the last 5 years. I think that is a little ridiculous, but the wheels are nice. 

Recently, I saw that Walthers is offering wheels that look similar but are cheaper. Can anyone tell me if they are just as good as Intermountain or maybe even better? Below is a picture from the Walther's website. 

 

gear for proto 2000 2-8-4 berk

So I have a proto 2000 2-8-4 berkshire engine.  The main wheel gear is split.  Got it apart thinking I might be able to use the old athearn standby.  Well I failed.  Got it apart and the gear is too small to mesh with the gears inside the boiler.  So where might I find a gear for this?  Is the old gear fixable?  It is a super nice engine and would hate to see it relegated to the shelf. 

Also is there anyone that fixes these?

Thanks

Mike

What are WWII-era covered hoppers and does any make them?

I often see a few covered hoppers in old movies of late steam-era operations. Yet I've never really seen anything written on them and I don't seem to be able to find any models of same. Any info out there on such things?

Thisguy22's picture

Bachmann lighting and DCC

Hey all,

Just received a Bachmann On30 coach/observation car with a lighted interior, which came with absolutely no paperwork. I've tried looking everywhere and can't seem to find a square answer...

Will these cars work out of the box on DCC, or do I need to rework the electronics to make them DCC friendly?

In case it matters, currently working with an NCE Powercab system.

Thanks for any help!

Ben


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