Diesel locos
Era Drift - Modeling the 1960's and it's rolling stock...
Hi everyone,
I have a multi part question... I am primarily modeling 1954 but I have set my railroad up to change for multiple eras. I am now looking to 1969. My railroad is the GN and I am familiar with their changes in the 1960's, "circus cars, glacier green, and big sky blue" but I am less familiar with rolling stock changes around the nation at the same time. The GN was acquiring covered hoppers but the vast majority of their fleet was 55% boxcars and they were one of the few railroads making good money during this time. My questions are as follows.
Weathering N&W
Hi
As we all know N&W diesels had a very dark paint scheme, mostly black. I find it difficult to create an interesting weathering, the only thing I can think about is dust created by a wash with the airbrush.
Any ideas?
Robert from Sweden
A tale of two Plymouths
Trying out my new Walthers Mainline ML-8 Plymouth and comparing it to my BLI WLB Plymouth
The ML-8 has an onboard Current - Keeper, meaning it ignores #8 unpowered frogs
Atlas Master Line vs. Athearn Genesis, GP7
"Not trying to start a gang rumble!"
But, looking at painting a HO undecorated GP7 for Missouri Pacific (70s era). Athearn has a Genesis versions (Phase I, II, III) but also see where Atlas will ship their "Master Line" versions, (Dynamic brake, no dynamic brake), to dealers this month.
So, looking for feedback on your choice and why.
Help With Intermountain F Unit
I purchased a Intermountain F unit with a LokSound Select decoder. It runs and sounds great. It's a PRR model of the freight class single stripe prototype. It has a large hole in the front pilot for the coupler. The model comes with some miscellaneous small parts for the front pilot but I think they are for the doors on the pilot, which would cover the coupler on a passenger unit.
Adapting Kato decoder to Athearn engine (N scale)
I have a brace of Kato SD40s in Algoma Central colours that of course I always run together (which is not only prototypical, but necessary to haul a heavy train up my 2% grades). Both are equipped with Digitrax DN163K1C decoders, which is a drop-in replacement for the factory light board. Then one day, one of the locos stopped running. The lights worked, but not the motor. After a little experimentation, I determined that it worked fine running solo, but the minute I consisted it (using Advanced mode), it became no more than a pretty decoration.
Adding sound and weight to a 44-Tonner
Since a number of people have asked me about it in the past, I finally did a post (actually a 3-part post) on the New Haven 44-tonners, including how I add sound and an extra 3 oz of weight to the Bachmann or W&R brass models. I also use the Bachmann mechanism for the brass version.
The modeling info is in Part III. Enjoy!
Randy
Broken Body Shell Tabs
I raised this question about broken body shell tabs on Rob in Texas's blog here on MRH. At his friendly insistence he wanted me to post some pictures in an effort to help me out. I didn't want to sidetrack his blog though, so I thought I'd raise the topic here in a separate post. Thanks Rob!
One of the first engines I bought when switching to HO scale was an Atlas U30c diesel. Over time (and probably due in large part to my ineptitude as a modeler then) some of the tabs that hold the body to the frame have broken.
Bachmann GE 70 Tonner gears
Hi Guys,
FInally got around to replacing the god-awful OEM decoder in my GE 70 tonner (2nd Gen, with centre can motor) yesterday, only to find all four drive gears have cracked, resulting in a loco that performs like a true dog.
Checking the Bachmann spares site - the only wheelsets they had available (which are out of stock) are those available for the 3rd generation chassis - same as the 44 tonner.
American Models vs Stanton Drive S Scale
I'm looking at the American Models GP35 or U25B as a starting point in S scale. I'm not finding much about them for how well they operate. Does anyone know if the S scale Stanton drive has good slow operating characteristics? I like the idea of the empty shell for better speakers and such ( possibly going with a radio and battery backup system ). However, if I use them but don't know if they'll operate smoothly like I want them to. This will be on a switching layout so I don't need or expect to be blasting around at 70mph.
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