Okay, here's what I'm wanting to model:

Obviously everything on the end of the arm will need to be scratchbuilt - it was scratchbuilt for the prototype too. Athearn's released some John Deere tractors, but not this particular one. Based on the website I'm guessing they don't have a licensing agreement with John Deere anymore, either.

I just found 2 Proto 2000 50' single door boxcar kits. They are a few years old (10 or so?) but never built. They are undecorated and I am wondering about a prototype for these. I don't think my preferred road (CPR) had these so I am looking for a prototype to paint and letter these two cars. I'm just getting back into the hobby but have done some custom painting and lettering in the past and am eager to fire up the old airbrush. Any help would be appreciated.

Greg Williams

Based on the unbelievable amount of recent posting activity regarding a new control system, I am wondering how much time is spent modeling vs typing on the computer?  At the rate I type, some of those longer posts would have taken me about 45 minutes to write-proof-send.  That's about how long it takes me to build a turnout in a Fast Track jig!  Are these posts coming from what we used to call "armchair modelers"?  Honestly, I didn't have time to read them all.  Ah well, I guess everyone is entitled to model in their ow

I am facing several hundred glue joints in which a tiny drop of glue will be individually applied.  Fast drying plastic glue is called for by the kit maker.  I have a few syringes but only one remaining long needle (tip rounded off) that I've used to lubricate various mechanisms.  It looks like the ideal tool but I am concerned the fast drying glue will quickly become a solid column inside my dull needle.  Is that a problem with plastic glue needle tips?