Trackwork

railandsail's picture

Double-Crossover Dissection, and particularly Shinohara

 I realize a lot has been written about this subject of double crossovers, but as I was going back thru some of the posted subject discussions on various forums I was getting confused by some of the great variety of opinions and facts. I thought I might extract some of these various postings and solutions offered into this subject thread in hopes of LEARNING and REMEMBERING the best of the ideas presented. So please excuse my 'duplication' in this subject.

Handlaid Turnouts -- Ties, how to color?

I have built a few hand-laid turnouts that work very well, using PCB ties and MicroEngineering Code 83 rail. THe plan is to add the MT. Albert Scale Lumber ties next.

What's the best way to go about coloring the ties? I have heard people talk about stain, which is pretty easy to do. And should I do it BEFORE I glue them to the underside of the rails, or after? Knowing how impermeable BARGE cement is, it seems like I'd need to stain them all BEFORE gluing, otherwise the stain will not penetrate the areas with glue.

Older Brass Track

I've read several posts about the problems with brass track, and I agree with all the comments. I am in the process of replacing all my brass turnouts, straight, curved and flex track.

Several posts suggested that it would be OK to use brass track in spurs/industrial dead ends where an engine would most likely not be touching the brass track. That sounds good, but my question is, would those brass track dead-end sections cause a degradation in the overall electrical current in the Nickle-Silver sections leading up to the brass track?

Thanks......

railandsail's picture

Fixing Atlas Custom Line turnouts

Just ran across this interesting subject thread, with photos, of modifying Atlas custom line turnouts,...both shimming the frog flangeways and electrical bridging of those riveted rails.

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/fixing-atlas-custom-line-turnouts.30826/

Cork is down

Adding an update to my progress.

     Got the majority of my roadbed down. All of my mainline, sidings, staging, and some spurs. 

     I started by sanding all of the shine off the foam and putting a light coat of brown interior paint on it. I hate the pink color and it helps me later on when I begin to carve the terrain. (The pink shows through so I know exactly where I am carving.)

gsinos's picture

Portable Double Helix

At the NE-IA Train Show this weekend, this fellow had his portable double helix on display. It breaks down into pieces that fit into a relatively small box for transport.    No fasteners.  The parts are all friction fit.

GS

 

Users of Micro Engineering Ladder system

I downloaded the templates of the ladder system and printed them out.  I verified that the template lengths were correct.  When I placed the templates on the layout, I get track spacing of 1 &13/16ths not the recommended spacing.

For those who have installed the system, what have I missed or done wrong?

Thanks...Ken

David Calhoun's picture

Insulfrog Problem Solved!

Insulfrog Problem Solved!
David Calhoun's picture

Insulfrog Help

Okay, I have an intermittent problem with engines (H-10's) stalling at some (but not all) insulfrog switches on my layout - especially at low speeds. Is there a way to correct this? I understand that frog juicers do not work on insulfrog Code 83 switches.

All engines have been speed set up correctly and "crawl" over most of the layout. On some switches, the engine stops and then "reconnects" with the dcc program and start again. Jerky, but the momentary stop drives me crazy. On some points, a slight nudge to the engine gets it going again.


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