Benchwork - Roadbed

Bill Brillinger's picture

Simple Switch Machines for the BNML

I created a simple switch machine for controlling my Peco Turnouts from the fascia on my layout this week. The criteria I had in mind for these were as follows:

the_mighty_oz's picture

Sufficient support for two inch foamboard in HO scale..... 16 or 32 inch spacing?

Well, the move to the retirement house (notice I said HOUSE, not HOME... the "home" is hopefully a few years down the road...!) in coastal NC is done, and I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the unpacking and modifications to the place here and there.  The model railroad is calling.

jmt99atsf's picture

Layout Update: Mid October 2015

Over the last couple of weeks, I have been working on finishing the installation of the two remaining sidings (Paradigm siding & Morris Stock Feed Yard) and placing/annotating the track feeders for the Paradigm section. The bus wire for this power district (Main Level PD #2) was made, marked with two yellow strips of tape every 5 feet (give or take), and run through the pre-drilled holes along the back wall from the east helix to the power cabinet under the window. 

Fixing a mistake? (Sound resonance on foam)

Well, in my eagerness to get to laying track, I think I may have made a mistake.  I created an open frame module from one inch boards, and topped it with a one inch thick blue foam board to serve as the layout deck.  It's not a huge section (1 x 2.5 feet), and it's rigid enough to support the trains and scenery (a masonite fascia board will keep train crews from chipping the edges), but it drums loudly when a train passes over it.  Didn't think of that!

Joe Baker's picture

Multi-Deck Sectional Benchwork with Grades

Any examples out there of free standing multi-deck sectional benchwork (multi-deck sections that can be moved every couple of years that aren't secured to walls)?

Any examples of grades across sections and how the alignment is maintained?

 

 

Joe Baker

Starting Over

I have two 2' x 4' modules with a 2' x 2' lift out section in between them. I've run into a brick wall and I'm thinking of starting over. I'm not happy with the way things have turned out and I'd like to try and do it better. I'm not very far along so it wouldn't take too much time to dismantle. Has anyone else ever gone through this? Do most guys just keep going no matter what? Is there a point when you say to yourself: this isn't working, time to start over. I'd like to hear your thoughts. 

Joe

JC Shall's picture

Installing a Bridge

I'm coming up on a first in my layout construction: installation of the first bridge.  I'll be installing a Central Valley 72' plate girder bridge and I've got a few questions about the installation.

Do you normally secure the bridge to the abutments or let it "float" beneath the track (simply sitting on the abutments with the track itself holding it in place).

2 level mountain

Has anyone with a 2 level RR ever run a scenic element from the lower level through the upper level? I'm thinking a mountain with a tunnel on the lower level that would taper through the upper level so I can introduce a bridge to cross the mountain on the upper level. Blayne

New shelf layout

So if you look at the dates of last posts, you'll notice that this shelf has been a long time coming.  Now I've got to design the track plan.  The shelf is 16 inches wide, nine and a half feet by six feet.  It can come apart in two four foot and two six foot sections.  Still want to model the NYC in Michigan, somewhere between Owosso and Saginaw.  I am considering a Time Saver or some sort of switching puzzle on part of it for higher interest.  Not really sure yet on what to do with the track plan.

MikeM's picture

Quiet track--Ground foam as ballast?

I know the subject of building quiet track has been knocked around a lot over the years but I've never seen any discussion of the feasibility of using ground foam rubber (if you could find the right colors) as ballast.  Would this work with a matte medium adhesive to build track with a less rigid (and hopefully quieter) ballast shell?  Would some other form of rubber (or any other soft material you can think of) be a better substitute (not sure if the cell structure of foam would be too difficult to glue down even using "wet" adhesive)?  Just trying to think of


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