Locos - Rolling stock (general)

LPS L1's picture

cheap locomotives

Has anyone tried to cobble together a semi-complete locomotive from replacement parts? From Bachmann trains for instance, you could in theory build a 70 tonner minus circuit board and light bulbs and (possibly) couplers for about 47 dollars, (not counting all the charges that come with ordering) and add in components needed it would be around 50 dollars. Would that be economically feasible?

Disassembly of Rapido Caboose/Van

Does anybody have any recommendations for removing the Rapido caboose shell from the underframe? I picked up a roadname that I want to repaint into my home road, Got the cupola removed OK but don't see any means for taking off the rest of the shell from the base. Anyone done this and/or offer some suggestions. And by the way, the exploded parts diagram unfortunately didn't give me any clues either. My next step is to probably contact Rapido and see what they may be able to suggest. Thanks in advance

conrailandrew's picture

N scale dummy couplers

Hello,

I've been looking into N scale dummy couplers and was wondering if any one had any experience with Bachmann, Con-Cor or any others I might not know about.

I want couplers that will couple up when pushed together but I can uncouple manually.

Since I have a lot of rolling stock to convert, Micro-Trains couplers are rather expensive.

Anyone have any input?

Thanks,

Andrew

DKRickman's picture

Better replacement for traction tires?

Traction tires.  They do their job, but they're the source of problems like loss of continuity and they break, come off, pick up junk, dirt, etc.  Plus, the rubber is very sensitive to any oil, such as the grease in No-ox.

DKRickman's picture

Model Power HO 2-8-0 - any advice?

I have a Model Power 2-8-0.  It's tender driven (with rigid trucks and 36" wheels!), but all in all not a bad little engine.  Being all plastic, except for the brass driver tires (which pick up power), I am surprised at how well it runs and how good it looks.  It's no Spectrum or Proto 2000, but it's a lot cheaper as well.  And kitbashing is easy since the motor is out of the way!

Here's a photo from the Frateschi web site (the company that makes these models in Brazil):

C&EI F Unit

To All; This C&EI F Unit is one I painted, lettered, weathered and dullcoated. It is one of several I exchange out on this chassis. That way I save on money and at the same time have many railroads available to run. The train run that day determines the F unit body used.

 

Yours, Elvin Howland/E. St. Louis Rail Group Layout

DKRickman's picture

Any advice on measuring or comparing steam driver crank throw?

I need help!  I am trying to determine whether I can use a Bachmann 4-4-0 (old time, not Spectrum) driver with a Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 driver.  I already know about the different axle design, and have an idea on how to modify the 4-6-0 frame to deal with that.  The overall diameters are within a few hundredths of a millimeter, and I can skim the surface of the larger one if I have to.  The different counterweight style is not a problem - in fact it's the reason I'm considering the change.

N Scale Couplers: C'mon guys

One of your advertisers, Con-Cor, has a great spread on couplers.  They have a new one for long trains, fixed consists, lower price, etc.  Per them, the new ones are great, esp. for me since I 'hand uncouple' anyway.

They mention 5 or 6 major coupler alternatives, although MTL (nee Kadee) has the majority share.  We've seen this before:  Whether you have to pay Kadee or not (old days), make them alike.

GLN Boxcar

To All; I painted, lettered,detailed, weathered and dullcoated this 40 foot boxcar in tribute to my friend's Great Lakes Northern RR located in Suttons Bay, Michigan. It is a regular visitor on the E. St. Louis Rail Group Layout.

 

Yours, Elvin Howland/E. St. Louis Rail Group Layout


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