Locos and rolling stock

jrbernier's picture

C & O 15347

  I picked up an old Accurail 40' AAR box car kit at a train show.  The car is oxide red with the 'C & O for Progress' logo.  It has a build date of 1949, and a repack date of the mid 50's.

  My question is what color are the underframe and/or the trucks?   I am hoping some C & O experts are lurking the forum and have the answers - Thanks!

Jim

SD90's picture

Atlas GP40-2 pre order

What are your thoughts on the new GP40-2 announced from Atlas? I'm thinking of reserving a pair of them. Are they good runners? It looks like they will have ESU decoders in them. What is the difference between Silver and Gold lines?

Joe Baker's picture

Buying Rolling Stock

How do you buy your rolling stock?

Do you wait around until the right car with the right road name comes around or buy as many cars of the right type regardless of road name and paint them later?

DCC Decoder, Sound and Lights for an older Proto 2000 SD9?

Hi everyone,

I'm finally taking the dive into DCC with a Sprog One/Raspberry Pi 3/JMRI set up. I hope to install my first decoder with sound and new lights on my older Proto 2000 Great Northern SD9. (Not DCC friendly)

As for decoders I am looking for recommendations. The Tsunami 2 PNP seems like a good option, but the ESU Loksound decoders appear really nice as well. Both offer 567C Prime Mover sounds but neither have the RS3K horn, sigh...  Anyways here is the recommended Tsunami set up.

Graffen's picture

Mack 15t in HO

Hi all!
I just got the needed spare parts for my latest HO project.
The gears on the Tenshodo truck were cracked and had to be replaced.
I have rotated the motor position in the truck by 90° to make it fit in the very narrow hoods...
It will now get a decoder with stay alive and lighting.
The rest of the space will be lead.
 

 

 

barthollis's picture

Sergent Couplers?

I am just about to commit to changing my couplers to Sergent.  I bought a few to try and am really impressed with them (and the support from the mfgr.).  They obviously look way much better than Kadees, however, I don't have a layout (yet) to test them on and am wondering about using them on an operating layout.  I prefer to cut the "hoses" off the Kadee couplers and use a skewer for uncoupling, so using the wand won't be a problem.

I'm interested in any and all responses from those who have tried them.

Bart Hollis

Can this part be purchased in metal?

Moving and the handling of my reefer over the years has taken its toll. This is a pic of it years ago without the missing steps.

This step is missing on both sides. Does anyone know if a more durable one is available in metal?

How to rationalize my boxcar fleet.

I'm in the process of building a proto-freelance switching layout in HO that is based on a very active industrial ally that is in the heart of downtown Los Angeles. Having arrived to the point where I can start creating my operations plan, I have decided that I want to be as prototypical as I can be about sending the correct type of boxcar to a particular customer. i.e. an insulated car with plug doors would make sense to be going to a cold storage warehouse or food producer. 

Metrolink's picture

N-scale LBF Skybox cars/Railgon gondolas: Which trucks and couplers?

I just happened to pick up some N-scale NOS Hubert's/LBF Skybox loads on SP and ATSF flatcars. I haven't received them yet, but I know that these particular items do not have trucks or couplers included (no boxes either). Does anyone know which trucks would best fit these? Also, would you recommend truck-mounted couplers or body-mounted couplers for these particular cars?

Weathering: Capillary action

My favorite part of the hobby is weathering. I've definitely learned some reliable techniques that work well for me. I've attached some pics for your viewing interest :) 

One skill I have yet to become consistent on is getting capillary action to work. I do the usual dullcote application before starting any weathering. From there I prefer to use acrylics and powders. I have used oils in the past; the results can be good...drying time, too long. 

I welcome any insight, tips, technique suggestions. 


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