Track and electrical/DCC

Turnout Wiring

Just finished reading in MRH the article on wiring turnouts frogs.  Is this required on a DC layout as well?

DougL's picture

How to add stay-alive caps to Bachmann On30 Porter?

Has anyone put a commercial stay-alive capacitor system in the cab of a Bachmann On30 Porter?

I really want to keep the short length of the Porter and not add a tender. I am trying to avoid building a cap system from scratch.  The current cab is very open, I could close it up to hide a cap system.

 

 

From the ISE Workbench - Train Shuttle Controller

A bit over four years ago, we put together something called the “DCC auto-reverser” out of an Arduino, an LCD shield, and a motor shield. We designed it for the St. Louis Railway Prototype Modelers’ meet to just operate a train back and forth on our short test track, stopping and reversing the engine when it tripped a sensor at either end. We wrote up the build so that others could make their own, built one for Scott Thornton and his Milan Branch layout, and that was that.

tcrofton's picture

common rail DC block system

I'm starting to build my layout and have come up on a few questions

I am not interested in DCC and am building a sophisticated block system using Sperando's wiring book as a the guide. I'm using two cabs for the mainline, A & B, and several local cabs with priority in their yard or local industry (C, D, E) with rotary switches to send the correct power to the blocks. I am also using push button micro switches activated by the push rod linkages that control turnouts to power the frogs.

Help ID'ing an aprox. 10y/o decoder please

I haven't seen my DCC box in over 10 years now.  I'm finally getting around to looking through it to see whats what (6 moves in 10 years hasn't done it any favors).  I have been able to match everything up with all the open bags or projects but one.

I believe it's for a Proto 2000 but that is just a guess.  Any input to point me in the right direction is greatly appreciated.  There is no markings on the decoder whatsoever.

Steve

 

Walthers turnouts machines and switches

I am looking at getting some walthers turnout machines for my layout and since I am a college student I am wanting to save where I can. The button/switch that you push to tell the machine to switch the turnout is around $15 and I was wondering that if I could replace that with a simple switch such as an SPDT (Or other switch if that's what will work better).

DCC decoders and light bulbs

This morning I went to the parts cabinets and rounded up some resistors and Miniatronics 15 ma bulbs and some 1/4 watt axial resistors. I used my DC power supply set to 12 volts. I don’t like big surprises.

I found that by experimentation the power for a pair of bulbs in parallel was enough to make me want to let go of the 90 Ohm resistor quickly. A lot of heat. A small surprise. The heat generated by a single bulb through a 180 Ohm resistor was quite warm and I was barely able to hold onto the resistor. The resistor size was chosen by light intensity.

kh25's picture

DC electrical mess up

Ok I run block control DC with 2 power packs. A funky situation is going on . Power pack A is on B is turned off. Selector switches are all set for Power pack A train runs fine. I notice power pack B the power indicator is on glowing green.i slide all the selectors to power pack B .B is off but can control the trains although the throttle is all the way up but power is reduced.switch selectors to A speed/power increases.  Ok any ideas, yes I had done some ballasting and adding electrical blocks. Components are Atlas selectors. 

Simple block occupancy Detector for DCC (N Scale)

Hi Folks:

Im looking for some simple block occupancy detectors that I can build myself. Between signaling and crossing gates etc, im gonna need a bunch and the NCE BD20 at 13 - 15 bux is kinda  out of my price range.  IM looking for something coil type that will output like closing a toggle switch -- so I can use it to input to the NCE Mini Panel -- im having a bit of an issue getting some of the manufacturers to respond to me, and would really like to just be able to buy the PC board and solder it up myself.


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