Modeling topic

Phase 1 - Bench work

This layout is a huge complex and ambitious project (at least for me). The way to undertake large projects is to break them into smaller steps. I've debated the best way to break things up to be more manageable. The traditional approach is one type of construction at a time: (e.g. bench work, track / electronics, backdrop). The one module at a time approach, turns this around: build one section (module) until mostly complete before moving to the next section.

I've landed on a approach somewhere between those: phasing.

The Ross and White Red Devil Coal Loader at Alamosa...in 3D

A new project from the days of steam headed right into the digital Era. 

Filling in the gaps

A fine good Day/ evening to all reading this little post.

after Gaping the cross track I made I found that there are some Modelers that fill these electrical  gaps with something to prevent possible contact when rail might expand.

what is your experience like? Suggestions welcomed. I have heard a drop of regular cyanoacrylate,  Gel cyanoacrylate, Gooo: that rubberized stuff, Index card material...
the rail is code 100 rail and the gap? An index and a half card thin

 

The Georgetown & Allen Mountain Railroad V 6

This is the sixth version of the Georgetown & Allen Mountain Railroad. 

Attaching foam to plywood

I'm about to attach 2" foam to 5/8" plywood. I've noticed a lot of folks seems to use Liquid Nails for Foam but I'm think of using silicone caulk instead. Any comments?

 

What do you all use to program your sound decoders?

I currently have a mix of sound decoders in various locomotives (i.e. Loksound, Tsunami2 and Digitraxx).

I use JMRI for programming and updating CVs, etc.  I find this to be a challenge but I am learning.

Is there a more user friendly app to program sound decoders?

For example, I have an older Atlas MP15DC.  I'm replacing the old QSI sound decoder with either a Loksound, Tsunami2 or a TCS WOW decoder. . . not sure yet.

Help with a Walthers Hot Metal Bottle Car

After a long time searching, I finally found two Walthers hot metal bottle kits at a hobby shop near my son's house. I would like to put an orange light into the cars to stimulate the molten steel. I was thinking of installing a battery and an on/off switch to operate the lights. Please let me know if any of you have any ideas or have successfully tried this on your own cars. Electronics is not my strong suit.

Also, I don't know the best way to simulate the accumulated crude that in found near the opening where the steel would be poured.


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