I am wondering if any of you have any neat tricks for making a laser-cut wood structure kit light tight.  I am putting together a Blair Line kit and have put in some interior details and some LED interior lighting.  When I test fit the various roof panels, they look like perfect fits.  But, when I darken the room and turn on the interior lights, there are various places along the roof eaves where light leaks out-- even though with lights off the seam looks tight and true.

I'm getting read to do some scenery work. While rummaging through my old supplies I came across a couple of unopened bags of Sculptamold. The bags still feel "squishy" -- that is, I don't feel any lumps in the powder but I am pretty sure they are on the order of 20 years old, plus or minus. Does anyone know if this stuff is still good or should I toss it and just get fresh product? I would hate to get it on my layout and create a lot of rework for myself. On the other hand, I hate needlessly filling land fills.

Thanks, Vince

I'm getting ready to lay the track through the wood chip unloading area on my DOMTAR Pulp and Paper Mill layout and thought it would be prudent to figure out how I'm going to animate my Walthers HO Scale Rotary Dumper kit (just in case I have to move the track because of bulky under-layout components conflicting with the bench work).

Does anyone have a step-by-step of how to modify the Walthers rotary dumper to achieve reliable animation?

Hi all,

I have started doing scenery work on some modules on my layout and i am looking for ideas on how to represent "ballast-less-looking" mainlines and sidings. Searching and reading around i came across this very informative thread here:

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/7476