Track and electrical/DCC
Electrocuted by soldering iron...
I think my Weller soldering iron is trying to kill me. I touched it to my track and got a big spark like a 120v short. That was really weird because I've soldered a go-zillion times and haven't changed anything. My DCC system beeped, and the power strip that it is all hooked up to was off. So, I unplugged the strip from the wall. That seemed to fix it as I was able to solder several tracks without issue. I ate a little dinner, went back down and plugged the iron back in. When I went to solder track this time, I got a helluva jolt as soon as the solder touched the track.
Rail joiners
Rail joiners, this might sound like a simple questions, but what rail joiners do you use on your track.
The reason I ask is that I am using code 70 and hand laying my track. I have some rail joiners in my box that are large and slide on the rail ends with no resistance, plus they are big and ugly. I have others that are almost flat and are just about impossible to get on without puncturing my finger.
Any suggestions on brand, size of a rail joiner with a low profile that will fit with some resistance, but will slide on and not look ugly and big?
Question about Shinohara code 70
Does anyone out in MRH-land know the part numbers for Shinohara code 70 #4 and #6 wye turnouts?
I'm trying to help someone locate some.
Thanks,
Peter
Soldering clusters of turnouts?
I am just getting to the track laying part of my N scale Fall Creek adaptation and I was looking for the general consensus about soldering clusters of turnouts together on the bench before installing them on the layout. I am using atlas code 55 flex and turnouts.
Do I need to solder all my track joints?
If I have at least 1 set power feed wires (+ & -) soldered to each of the lengths of flex track on my N-scale layout, is it necessary that I solder the joints between lengths of flex track?
I am looking to have the sections butted next to each other firmly (not tight) with rail joiners, but I'm afraid that if I solder the joints, there is a greater risk of the track buckling.
Thoughts?
Fast Tracks Stock Aid
Hi Everyone,
I'm after opinions about Fast Tracks stock aid. Is it work the investment and does it speed up the process dramatically?
I have jigs for No.6 point form and turnout but my point form tool is a very old version that doesnt clamp the rail between two pieces and file away.
Im going to buy a new up to date one and wanted to knwo if its worth getting a stock aid at the same time.
Proto 1000 DCC installation
Has anyone on the forum tried to use the plug in 8 pin type of decoders in the Proto 1000/2000 Models? The printed circuit board inside of these models clearly show where to cut traces in the copper, in order to isolate the motor and be able to plug in the 8 pin decoder, 6 pins are all that's used on FT, F3, F7, and so on due to no rear headlight. I am just curious if anyone has had success with doing an installation that way as opposed to completely replacing the existing printed circuit board with the solder tab type of decoder board.
Led Circuit Board for LED wiring
I have been looking for a circuit board on to which I can solder surface mount resistors. On one side I could solder the wire from a decoder, on the other side I could solder the wire to an LED. Between the wires are two pads to solder a surface mount resistor. I think I've seen this advertised before, and I'm simply not finding it. Any help?
Soundtraxx Current Keeper Install Question
So, My Athearn Genesis MP15AC is stalling out. On my old layout, it was finicky. My new layout is wired better, all turnouts are electrofrogs and were modified. The frogs are all juiced. Every section of track has feeders. And, this little locomotive is still finicky. I cleaned all the track and locomotive wheels. And, at creeper speeds it still stalls out. I am building an ISL on a shelf, so slow speed switching operations is what I am doing. Its getting frustrating.
NMRA Gage (Guage)
I will admit that sometimes I am quite thick. My wife will attest to that. However, I am confident I can be taught. I have in my possession three NMRA gages. I prefer gauge. I decided to buy the Mark IV to be up to date on any changes. There doesn't appear to be any. I looked at the instruction sheet and couldn't quite wrap my head around the flangeway and points section. So I looked it up online and see there has been a revision to the instructions packaged with my gauge. I'm still a little confused.
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