I'm just breaking into the 'vintage Suydam HO Barton Mills Lumber Mill kit. I'd like to hear about the experience other modelers have had with this great kit. I'm particularly looking for information and techniques about finishing and weathering the heavy corrugated metal. What say you? Thanks for your help.

I am currently building a couple Walthers grain bin kits.  In doing so, it is about impossible to not wind up with some small horizontal gaps (1/16" or less) in the seams between layers of rings.  These could be filled in on the interior of the kit and will never be seen.  On this type of a styrene structure kit what are some good options for filling these gaps?

I posted this question as a reply to several older topics on static grass, but it occurred to me they might never even be seen by anyone for awhile.  My question is on how to establish a good ground contact for the application of static grass when one has hard shell or some other plaster scenery base.  All the videos I have seen apparently have a foam board base or some other soft material that one can easily inert a nail into as the ground contact.  Can't very well pound a nail into a plaster scenery base without cracking the plaster or at least making a mess of plaster

Choosing a "category" is difficult. So I chose two. Ballast. First of all. I'm still going to play trains until I'm totally satisfied that the track, locos, cars, wiring is all perfect. And then think about ballast. I am paranoid about water. Not so much the Elmers/water used to fixate the ballast. But if it's needed to be taken up. My track and roadbed are all laid with caulk. You know - the thin layer, just enough to hold. In 6 months, I've had no trouble with that. In fact, when I did need to pry up and relay, it was super easy. No mess. No fuss.