Track and electrical/DCC
Rail GAp device
I lost track of information about a commercial product for stabilizing track on either side of an inserted rail gap. My recollection is that the product was a metallic set of ties that are slipped under the rail at the site of the desired gap, The rail is soldered to the metallic tie set and then, once the rails are firmly in place, a gap is created. The tie pads on either side of the gap are of course not electrically continuous.
Soundcar with DecoderPro?
Just got around to ordering a Soundtraxx soundcar decoder. I have a small switching layout and will mount a speaker underneath. Has anyone used DecoderPro with the Soundcar decoder? I’m using a Sprog DCC to make CV adjustments. Is there something special about the soundcar decoder I should be aware of?
Keeping your Digitrax DCS100 steady
I have my Digi DCS100 sitting on a shelf underneath the first deck. The problem is its loose and when you plug into one of the jacks the little sucker moves around. Of course I can think of ways to stop the command station from moving, but I just know some one out there has come up with a slick method to do it. Explanation and picture would be great. I'm interested in stabilization front to back, but I open to suggestions.
Switch Stand Position?
Are there prototype rules concerning the placement of a switch stand? Before I start relocating stands I thought I should ask.
For example: at this location it seems more logical for both stands to be on the same side of the track. Would a real railroad always put the stand on the diverging side or would they mix and match sides to minimize conductor crossing the tracks?
Resistor value to replace motor load
I would like to use a sound decoder in a boxcar while controlling the locomotive on a non-sound decoder in the locomotive.
Can anybody suggest an appropriate value for a resistor to put across the motor leads to replace the motor load.
I am guessing that I should also turn back EMF off on the sound decoder?
Newer Code 70 Shinohara turnouts
I have acquired a few newer code 70 Shinohara turnouts. I know the old ones were notoriously non-DCC friendly. How about these new ones? Are they similar to the Walthers code 83 turnouts? It appears that the metal connection between the points is gone but it looks to me like the frog is not isolated. Any opinions about how difficult it would be to convert these to modern DCC. I understand the basics but turning a Dremel with a cutting tool loose on the frog without knowing the pitfalls seems to be a way to destroy an expensive turnout. Where to
Looking for manual switch control with DCC and live frog switches?
I have some givens and druthers:
Givens: fifteen Peco code 83 electro frog switches; 4x8 layout w/ 3/4 inch plywood base (photo forthcoming), probably California roadbed (aka Homabed), & 1x4 fascia for control mounts; NCE DCC
Druthers: manual control of switches; auto polarity when flipping switch; nice looking switch stands
I've seen
SMD LED size?
I'm currently working on an Athean GP 38-2 that I'm building for a friend of mine and want to add ditch lights above the anticlimber as in this photo. Also having a bit of trouble determining what ditch light detail parts I need for this engine. What size SMDs will work. I'm new to the SMD leds as I haven't used them before. P.S. this is the actual loco I am building a model of.
Simple tip for keeping wires straight.
This should have been a duh, no brainer, but I didn't think of it until my second pass at running wires under the layout. I color coded each end this time. Made hooking it up much easier. I bought a package of electrical tape in five colors. Tape the same color at each end when running the wire and you don't have to keep running back and forth trying to keep which wire is which. The color also goes into the documentation of how I wired this thing for later trouble shooting.
Doug Maddox
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