My layout that inspired this question.

I built Hedi-girder table, used revised 4x8 Red Wing division track plan to support my preferences for operation.

Here's how I do it...........

Peter

Looks good but will it work through thicker plywood?

Not sure how well it would connect throw to the switches with 3/4 inch plywood between instead of 1/4 inch luan as you seem to have (I know, mine's overbuilt, but it is solid around the kids).

DPDT paddle switches

I describe the DPDT paddle switch method I used at  http://www.iaisrailfans.org/gallery/Manual-turnout-throws . The switches, mounted with a T-shaped Masonite piece and four drywall screws, control both the electrical and physical routing of the turnout. Simple, cheap, and easy to build.

Hump Yard Purveyance

In Model Railroad Planning--I think--a few years ago Bill Darnaby showed how he attached microswitches directly to the Hump Yard Purveyance levers. Sorry, I can't put my hands on the issue at the moment.

Another solution while still using HYP is Tam Valley's Frog Juicer.

http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dccfrogjuicers.html

Steve Hoxie

Pensacola FL

Since 4 by 8 layouts usually

Since 4 by 8 layouts usually have a short lifespan I'd probably look into manually throwing the turnouts along the front and try to get by with the existing built in Peco functionality and then just power the turnouts along the rear with tortoises or Peco switch motors if no way to reach them can be found. I'd prefer access to the rear so they could be hand thrown too but a few powered turnouts cost less than a lot of powered turnouts :> ) ......DaveB

DMBOTT.........

.........the base sits on top of the bench work top as seen in the second example next to the locomotive.  It can be a foot thick!  I drill a hole with a Forstner Bit in Homosote or plywood or cut with a knife in foam.  I showed it set up in an area like that so one could see the limit switch and the mount clearly.

Peter

Time frame

i agree they are usually short-lived, but I am a member of a modular club where I can run long trains and I have had several basement layouts prior to this. I don't have wall space due to shelving, oil tank, furnace and workbench for household tools. I cannot afford to build a room in the basement. This layout will be stand alone with access on all sides (it currently sits against a wall while I rearrange the laundry area for my wife. I don't foresee a basement empire, as the modular club fills my need for long trains.  I wanted continuous running for speed matching locomotives, and I want to experiment with scenery in small spaces. While I would not argue with your contention that most 4x8's are short lived, I am not like most who start with one. This is my conscious choice given my interests, available time for the next 15 years, and my known limitations. I believe more 4x8's are starter layouts built in a hurry and die because they work poorly with limited match to interests and experience. I hope I do not resemble that beginner.

Ahhhh... I see

Peter,

Thanks for clarification.

Dave

 "This layout will be stand

In that case I think the decision would come down to how you plan to operate it most?  Will it be pulled out so you can throw switches along the rear or will it be against the wall and need to be operated from the front only? If you must throw the rear turnouts remotely I'd go with tortoises ( or other motors) for them as wiring is a lot easier to install than cross layout mechanical linkages. If you plan to walk around during operations then ground throws or other local control can be fun. I use Blue point controllers on my new N scale layout and find them very easy to install. I've found they don't need any remote linkage as it's a simple matter to reach under the table and flick their lever by hand( they are right under the points so easy to find ) Using the blue point controllers this way and with DCC I can have a layout with nothing on the fascia which looks nice and clean..DaveB

Manual Turnout Control w Live Frogs

I use both Humpyard controls (for more "remote" turnouts: max 22" from the edge in my case) and Caboose Industries ground throws and decided that Frog Juicers are probably the most reliable and easiest to install system for powering only those frogs that really need power. All is well.

Dante

Frog juicers

I had that revelation last night!  If I use frog juicers, I can use any form of manual control without worrying about integrating a switch. This means for now, I can use my finger or skewer to flick Peco switches until I can see through use which ones need remote under table Humpyard connection and which can use manual switch stand.  Three hex juicers are low profile and will limit congestion under the layout too!

Dave

"I had that revelation last

Also if you plan to use frog juicers you can leave them off at first till you find out if you really need them. I've had layouts where dead frogs worked fine so never powered them, it just depends on the frog gaps  and the locos power pickups. Ground throws and dead frogs are about as simple as it gets( I guess flicking peco points with a stick is a bit simpler) .....DaveB 

Manual turnout control

Peter I like your method - simple but effective.  Is it O or HO scale layout?

I am experimenting using a bullfrog without the cable as a method to control the frog polarity.  I'm using a Peco turnout modified to isolate the frog and constant power to the closure rails and gaps cut as needed.   The Peco over center spring is still installed for the throwbar.  When I push the points the bullfrog changes the micro switch polarity. Operation is OK but sometimes the switch doesn't trip.  Probably need to do some adjustment on the Bullfrog.  Oh, Why all this work?  All track & turnouts are installed and ballasted.

I have some jigs that allows me to router (Dremal with sheetrock bit) a slot under the point throw bar from the underside of the 1/2" sub-roadbed and cork roadbed.  However I have damage a point or two.

Using you setup I could move the slot away from under the point throw bar and may be able the route it from the topside.  thanks for the idea.

Ed

Ed.............

........those are HO high switchstands on O gauge code 100 track.  I think they are just the right size for O but would still be OK in HO.  Also, I originally used the ground throws with the same micro switch on my last layout.  As long as you get the ones with springs any of them will work fine.  I have been constantly perfecting the design and now I think they are bulletproof.  I'm going to post all the pics I've got here once I resize them all.  Stay tuned.

Contact me off line if you need any help.  

Thanks,

Peter