I wanted to know the operating characteristics of the old open-frame Pittman motors in my brass engines so I could replace them with can motors.  I wasted several months ordering and testing various motors that were too slow. A multimeter could measure voltage and current draw. But how to determine the RPMs?

Fortunately, other people know how to measure RPM, amperage, and torque, and posted it all on YouTube.

I found an unpainted built-up model of the Heljan roundhouse at a railroad club tag sale.  I wiped some mortar into one panel of painted bricks, dusted it with weathering powder, and it looked really good, so I decided to break it down and give it a 2-evening makeover with simple stuff I can get from a craft or hobby store, using only moderate building skills. It would be even easier starting with anew, unbuilt model.

I always thought this trackside building in Hadley, MA looked interesting.  It is in severe disrepair and probably cannot be preserved.  I hope to make an accurate model to save a version of it. 

Amherst Railway Society is finally building a club layout after 50 years. It's a very simple 2-track loop.  

In 1 1/2 inch scale.

It worked for me - I hope others try it and report if it works for them.  I would have used artists' wetting agent, I only had rinse aid on hand.

In brief, I made a 0.02% thinning solution of dishwasher rinse aid in tap water

{Hey, what happened to Step 3, Add All-wheel Pickup?  I moved that to a separate blog entry because it is more general and can also be applied to DC locos. Adding all-wheel pickup to brass steam locos}
 

Drivetrain...

I try to avoid driveshafts with dual U-joints, replacing the tubing is usually enough. I try to keep it simple. 

I stole the phrase "Make it run Like a Dream" from the trilogy of books, Make it Run Like A Dream by Joe Fugate.  They have been extremely helpful for trackwork and rollingstock.  I ordered the whole set from the MRH store.  I am eagerly awaiting the third book about locomotives. 

Like I mentioned, I try to do the least disassembly – more touching means more chance of breaking or losing parts.

Our subject is a well-used PRR 4-8-2. The nickle plate is worn off the drivers and it has been repaired in several spots, but the wheels turn when you apply power, it has pretty good detail, and I could afford it.

Here is  a perfect example why you should not hard-wire everything.  From the smokebox front to the back of the tender, everything is tied up.  I can't separate the tender and loco to work on them separately.

I really appreciate all the comments and posts by other modelers. I have learned a lot from you.

I have found 50 percent of any craft is knowing how to do it right. The other half is knowing how to fix your mistakes. 

I have converted several old brass steamers to DCC, will convert more, and made a bunch of mistakes.

Through trial and error and many good articles, I found converting brass to DCC is not terribly difficult if I keep these ideas in mind: