Locos - Rolling stock (general)

Eric H.'s picture

What's on your workbench? November 2019

Here we are in November! Thanks to all who shared their October work.

Time to start up an new thread to share images and detail on your recent modeling progress! We learn something new when your latest work is shared.

Eric

 

Eric Hansmann
Editor-at-Large, Model Railroad Hobbyist

IAISfan's picture

Question for Santa Fe and freight car experts

I'm building an ex-Santa Fe PS-2 converted to a ballast hopper ( https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/37796 ), but have run into a couple challenges where my knowledge is lacking.  Here are two pics of the prototype (first one courtesy of Erik Rasmussen):

Decal silvering: why some do, and some don't?

Like any good modeler, I gloss coated my model prior to decal application. I used rattle can Kryon 'gloss' and gave the entire car a nice coat of gloss. I let the gloss coat dry 24 hours before decal application.

I applied a variety of sizes of decals, various companies, age of decals unknown. Clear, white and yellow film depending on the decal.

Decal A. The one and only good one after a flat coat. The COTS and the "keep off roof" yellow decal also turned out without silvering.

Soldering the LED leads to the small connector board on a Decoder Buddy

I’ve posted the routing of LED leads in the “Whats On Your Workbench?” as snipits.  This is slightly more involved so I’ll post it separately. 
 

The first step was to solder a lead to the positive side of the small connector board.  Just like the decoder the hot wire goes to all the LEDs.

IAISfan's picture

IAIS's West End - IAIS 9719 - Ex-ATSF ballast hopper kitbash

I've said in previous blog posts that IAIS's MOW fleet includes some real gems that I've been looking forward to modeling, and IAIS 9719 is definitely one of them - an ex-ATSF PS-2 covered hopper converted to an open-top ballast hopper with Morrison-Knudsen ballast discharge gates.  In this post, I'll walk through the kitbash and weathering.

Here are Erik Rasmussen photos of the prototype:

Quality of engines

Just a simple question, but expect a lot of complicated answers. LOL If a person who has no knowledge whatsoever about HO diesels wants to buy a GP7 or GP9. And lets assume it is a PRR. Now: there's Athearn, Bachmann, Walthers, and who knows how many more. How would the decision be made? Price? Details? Running quality? decoder quality? Or buy a DCC compatible and what decoder? You see the dilemma? Yes, price may be a determinate factor, but how do you know you get the quality you expect for the price you pay?

68' DODX Flatcar

Just finished up a Union Terminal Imports 68' dodx Flatcar BN green. Model #15 of 15 won't say how much I paied. The M1A2 is a modified roco kit. The M1150 ABV is a resin kit by Arsenal M. The tie downs are by Alkem scale models.

IAISfan's picture

IAIS's West End - Locomotive wear & tear...and repairs

One thing that's apparent when you model a single railroad for nearly two decades is that the state of the equipment is always in flux.  Damage and wear are inflicted, repairs are made...more wear, more repairs.  In fact, that's one of the things I enjoy most about prototype modeling within a very tightly-defined era because, through the details you choose to model or ignore, you tell the story of where a particular locomotive or car was in its journey with the railroad.

Let's see your weathered reefers

I'm looking for ideas for this reefer. I have weathered my other reefers, but want to do something different.

Working with decals that cover the full side of the car

Good morning, 

I've purchased some large scale decals like the following:

http://www.moondograilcars.com/product_p/ich001.htm

I haven't found any resources or tips for using decals that cover the entire car.  Before use get the decals wet, any advice to avoid wrinkling or ruining these decals?  It seems like I've got one shot to get it right and I'd like to get it right the first time.  

Thanks for any help!

-Matt

 


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