Locos and rolling stock

Brass Repair and Detailing

Hi everyone,

I have a brass auxiliary water tender that I am updating right now to a specific prototype. I need to add some headlights (GN type) with mounts and LEDs on top of the tender similar to the photo below. I was looking at detailing the tender with other brass parts as well. What is the best method to attach parts? I have used epoxy before with success but also was considering soldering. Thoughts for making this or techniques? This is my first brass paint project.

Stewart/Kato F7 Noise

I have an older Stewart F7 unit with a Kato drive. I recently did some servicing on the unit and after I reassembled the unit, I could hear a chugging noise coming from it (assuming it's an issue with one of the gear boxes). I took it apart again and ran it without the shell after inspecting the mechanism (didn't see anything wrong with the mechanism. Motor runs fine) and the noise was still present along with the unit slowing down slightly on one of my curves (22" radius) after minutes of running.

 

APR steamer's picture

Accurail 36 ft boxcar rebuild

I recently purchased an Accurail 36 ft boxcar and after looking it over I wasn't too pleased with the size of the molded grab irons so I sat down to change then. This is the result. The car is lettered with decals from a departed old friends layout.

Ken Rutherford

Bakers Chocolate Tank Car

This is and was a all metal kit made by Thomas Trains. It's a mostly accurate car. There were two single compartment and at least one two compartment car. The only parts I kept was the tank, ends and manway. I scratched the top platform. I used the Athearn 40' tank car frame that I plumbed and detailed. Thanks for looking!

cduckworth's picture

Looking for side rods for a Haftner tinplate locomotive

My layout is HO but I’ve picked up a couple tinplate trains for display.   Since I started with the Missouri Pacific I bought a Haftner Sunshine Special a few years ago and the cars are locomotive are in wonderful shape.  At some point in time the locomotive lost its side rods (before I bought it) but the windup motor still works like new.   Anyone know of a source I could contact to find replacement side rods?  

LMACKATTACK's picture

Frisco 2-10-0 Brass

This is a Brass engines I bought this year thru an auction. It ran ok on DC but the old open frame motor was noisy. I installed a new can motor and it ran like a watch. I then pulled it all down to bare frame to add lights and for paint. I installed a TSC decoder, added glass and some coal. wating on some decals and I will lightly weather and call it done.  This is a 1970s era PFM model.

 

 

 

bignallb's picture

Looking for info on a loco

Does anyone have experience with the HO Bachmann Alco S2 with DCC and sound?  I noticed Train World has them on sale for less than $100, but I'm concerned because I've not had good experiences with Bachmann stuff recently.  I bought a couple GE 44-ton switchers in November, and the decoder in one died suddenly (still runs in DC though), while the other runs very poorly.

I wondering about reliability and quality of both decoder and sound.

 

Thanks in advance!

Warflight's picture

DCC road block...

Okay, so, I've run into a bit of a road block on my Hogwarts DCC project.

I have the decoder all wired in (Digitrax SDH166D) My red and black wires are attached to the frame... orange and grey to the motor... I got the red wire for the right track, the black to the left... orange on the motor's positive, and grey on the negative... I fire it up... lights work. Sound works... motor doesn't move. Neither forward nor back.

Convert Bachmann On30 Cars to 55n3 - Redux

Have updated the conversion with new trucks and techniques:

http://www.55n3.info/cars/convert_box/

Thank you if you visit
Harold


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