Locos and rolling stock
Trouble with engines
Good evening forum, I need some help with a problem I am experiencing. I just finished setting up my mainline and proceeded to test it with one of my engines. I have a GP 9 from Athearn (3153FW) and when I attempted to run this I would get power in places and some sparking from the engine. I then tried an SD40-2 Snoot from Athearn #4808) and no sparking but the same situation as the GP 9 intermittent power on different areas of the track. I then put my Bachman Spectrum GE 70 ton Diesel (#81108) on the track and it ran beautifully without any issues.
Lead or Zinc?
This topic has probably been covered before, but I am wondering if newer locomotive runs form Athearn, Atlas or Walthers have Lead or Zinc Alloy weights inside? I would like to remove some weight from a Proto 2000 RS27 to add a speaker buy don't really want to grind on a Lead block. I am assuming that it is Zinc because there are no warnings on any newer packaging but never hurts to asks.
Thanks
Brad
What to call this thing
I have 50+ of these from a yard sale. I know similar things are used on semi trailers to to show that they have not been opened before delivery. What would the UP have called them and what is/was the use? On TOFC trailers, on containers, on other rolling stock? Could even be on switchstands etc., I suppose. any ideas or info.?
Loco tender bogies (trucks)
Hi, newbie here, living in Scotland (U.K).
Now that I've retired, I'm making a great change in my rail modeling experience...from modeling British and European narrow gauge practice to hopefully modeling South American (Colombian) narrow gauge prototypes,
Scale/gauge is HOn3 (Scale 1:87, track gauge 12 mm).
I can find sources/details for model passenger/freight bogies (trucks), but I cannot find such information for the trucks under locomotive tenders.
WOuld it be feasible to combine Shapeways 3D Printing & Laser Cutting to make NYC Caboose
The NYCHS promoted a NYC 19000 series wood caboose a few years ago to be made by Tru-Line. I have heard from different sources in the hobby manufacturing "world" for various reasons this project most likely will not be done. So now I am stuck with two options, scour Ebay and other sites to fine the Trix Model (at most likely prices of over $100 a car) or built one myself. I am debating is it feasible to perhaps design the underframe and roof's to be done by Shapeways and the walls and cupola out of basswood or taskboard. This would be for HO Scale
Battery power for HO MDC Shay
Has anybody tried to use a 3-cell (3S) LiPo battery pack (11.1 volts) to power a 2-truck or 3-truck HO Shay loco? I know that space is tight, but with LiPo packs getting smaller (at least in the 200-to-400 mAh range) it would be terrific to convert this loco to battery power. If anybody has done this, what 3S battery pack was used? What was installation process (where, how, etc.)?
psavello
Ned Help -- Correct Canon & Co. fans for SP SD-9 and GP-9's
Hello all,
I'd like to replace the fans on my P2K SD9 and GP9's but I'm having trouble knowing which ones would be appropriate. I do' not see a correct replacement from Canon and company listed. Which 36 and 48 would work for mid 70's GRIP program 9E/R's?
Also referencing the picture in the link below there is an odd flat top 36" fan on the rear of this GP9. What would be appropriate?
Looking for HO Scale Atlas S1 in Bath and Hammondsport scheme
This model came out in 2007.
I will be modeling the Bath and Hammondsport Railroad and planned on doing it in N scale but after seeing the amount of detail present on HO models while I was at Prototype Rails 2016, I'm looking to see if I can find the Atlas S1 engines.
Both engine numbers 4 and 5 were produced and those are what I'm looking for.
If anyone has any leads, I would appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks,
Mark
Mixed trucks on a single car
When, if ever, might you see a freight car with trucks that don't match? i'd assume that, after a wreck, whatever can be put on to roll the car away would be done--but would they ever be left mismatched? I was wondering for two reasons...
1. I have a couple of mismatched trucks lying around; their mates met bad ends
2. If it would be done in reality, I might do a car that way to creat an interesting model...perhaps also have most of the car well weatehred, with a small section looking brand new...
Best Way to Re-Attach Metal Running Boards?
A few months ago I picked up an Athearn FMC covered hopper with etched-metal running boards that had bowed up in a couple places. As seen below, they are attached with a series of pins into the carbody. Two of these pins are loose on one side and one on the other. What would be the best way to re-attach these? I haven't found a way to get inside the car so I *think* that is out of the question.
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