Scenery and structures

MRRSparky's picture

Sculpt a mold question

I just finished applying S. to fill a bunch of divots in my foam scenery base. Looked like cottage cheese on applying it; still looks the same once dry. Is thus the way it's supposed to look? _

Scott Groff

Metrolink's picture

Metrolink's scenery + pre-built structures super-thread!

I've done a fair amount of research on scenery materials since I've re-entered the hobby, and would like to share what I've learned here, including where to buy basic scenery materials at the best prices. See the latest post on various plasters: What's in them? Coming soon: My mini-review of Siflor's Buffalo Grass pre-made grass tufts!

After the fact road crossings.

I have used Atlas code 100 flex track on my layout and am in the process of road construction. The locale of the layout is North East Iowa in the 50's. Most of the crossings would be board or dirt. What would be a good way to go about making them?

                                           Mike

marjac99's picture

I'm searching a special figure

Friends,

because of a little scene which I want to build in the harbour area of my layout, I'm searching for an U.S: Navy or marine soldier in modern service uniform or as officer. Scale H0.
I can't find anything.
Has somebody a link for me?

Thanks and regards

 

 

Scratch-Built signals

Alrighty, I'd like to scratch build my own PRR position light signals. The ones I see available are too bulky, and the shades are too stubby. I've always liked the sharp quality they had sticking through the target. My question comes down to material... I have access to a laser cutter, so I can get accurate cuts for everything, and etching capabilities. I was thinking 3-ply Bristol doused in superglue, task board, super thin plexiglass, or 1/64" wood. I feel like the bristol will be the best because of the thinness in relation to rigidity.

A new industry comes to life

I have added a new entry to my blog titled Background Building.

https://johnnybweb.wordpress.com*

herronp's picture

Quick scenery tip..........

............for hiding the seams in removable buildings. 

To keep the ground cover from entering the joint I decided to glue and spike some thin cardboard to the base which covered the seam and could be covered with material to hide it.  I used gasket material which I had purchased to use to shim cork roadbed where needed.  It is impervious to water but wetting it allows it to conform to minor contours.  When it dries it's quite stiff.  Now if I have to remove the building it will require little work to fix the scenery once reinstalled.

smadanek's picture

I have a windows problem

Not Microsoft software this time.

I am in the design stages for a close HO model of the Southern Pacific depot in Walnut Creek as it looked in 1947. I have completed a scale mockup but am searching for the Queen Anne period architecture windows and doors that are distinctive features of the SP Type 18 building.  (see http://srandsp.blogspot.com/ )

Jure Sporn's picture

My scratch built work

Hey guys, a new scratch built project is complete. I made the school using Monster Modelworks materials and Evergreen styrene. After the walls were cut to the proper dimensions (and cut out the window openings of course), I fixed bracing strips to the backside of the walls and primed all the walls with a gray primer. I then painted it using a sponge, left it to get dry. I used pigment (Vallejo Green Earth) for the mortar. Brushed it to the surface and sealed it with a flat spray. The structure is slightly weathered. That's it. Enjoy and cheers!

 

 

Log Cabin Siding - HO Scale

I am going to be scratch building an HO structure that requires 10" Log Cabin Siding. I'm trying to figure out how to deal with this. Does anyone commercially make Log Cabin Siding? I need a good amount of the stuff...about 220 scale ft., 5 logs in width. I suppose it will be the 3D route if nothing commercially exists.

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

Tom 


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