Track and electrical/DCC
Transitioning Between Track Manufacturers (same code rail)
Sort of a newbie question, as I begin work on my first "serious" layout. I searched for an answer online and could not find anything helpful. I am using Code 83 track from a variety of manufacturers (mostly out of necessity given commercially-available turnouts) and have run into a problem: There isn't a seamless joint when I put two manufacturers together - for example, I am using Peco turnouts, Micro Engineering flextrack, and Atlas track in some places.
DCC Decoder installation
I have three older engines that I need to get converted to DCC. I need to know if anyone knows someone that can do this who is in or near the Dallas,Tx area. I really do not want to send my locomotives out to anyone.
Thanks
SO
Source for track superdetailing parts
Anyone have a good source? I know they used to be available.
Soldering Techniques - Surface Mount Componets
Literally stumbled across this YouTube video - not directly connected with model railroading but the techniques apply for anyone who would be doing any sort of soldering on a small scale.
[video embedding corrected - Bill]
Lenz LH90 Cable
I have an old Atlas hand set that was made by Lenz and is compatible with Lenz DCC+, however I need to replace the cable for it. It has a telephone style connection on the handset and the standard Lenz connection on the other end is a Din plug.
This is pretty much the same as the cable used by the LH90. The two questions are as follows were can I get this type of cable at all and can I get it someplace relatively cheap?

Installing a Walthers 90 foot DCC turntable
I am in the process of installing a Walthers 90 foot turntable. I have the hole cut as per the template and it is very snug. It will be mounted through 1/2 in. plywood with 1/2 in. homasote on top of that. To those who have been in my shoes--do I want it to have some breathing room or leave it snug. My fear with being too snug is warping the plastic turntable pit. Any help would be great.
Robert Gross
Short Circuit Protection for NCE SB5/5A Booster
I am not very knowledgeable when trying to manage the electrical aspect of my layout I am building. With that said, I just purchased an NCE SB5 booster to use with my Power Cab system. What is the best way to set up some type of short circuit protection system to keep the booster from from burning out? Are there alternatives instead of using NCE EB1 or CP6 circuit breakers? Also, any information on how to set up such a system would be helpful.
Thanks for your time, Mark
Decoder failures
Recently I brought some big engines out of storage to run in the club (my shelf layout is suitable to switchers, not 6 axle engines like my C44-9W or SD70ACe). Both locomotives are athearn and are fitted with Tsunami sound decoders. On the club the locomotives did not move. Both were responsive to DCC comands, turning lights on and off, bell, horn, prime mover sounds and all. Today I disassembled them and tested both with a multimeter. The motor outputs in both decoders were zero, even at full speed (I had removed the worm gear and shafts so no mechanical binding could happen).
12 volt accessory buss feeding arduino
I am planning on running a 12 volt accessory buss to power leds and accessories for stuctures, small motors and other animations on my lay out. I will be using arduino pro minis for some of the animations (led and motors). The arduino power in states it will take up to 12 volts. It has onboard regulation to knock it down to 5 volts. This will probably cause the pro mini to get hot. I was thinking that if I built a breakout board with an LM7805, tied into the 12 volt buss. Ground would be common for both 12 and 5 volt supplies. Will this cause any problems?
Scissor phone
I am slowly working on my dispatcher desk and I am looking at installing a phone system.
In doing so I need a phone for the dispatcher. The ideal is an old scissor arm. Ideally withan old style microphone not a candle phone. As I am modeling the C&O in the 1940s and that is,what they used It looked like the top Mic portion of a D104 stand microphone from the 1970 CB. One of those round microphones with the four screws and the metal wire mesh. Usually in chrome.
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