Benchwork and roadbed
Lighting
I am in the process of re-building a layout to replace the one I lost when my house burned down. I wanted to have a shadowbox effect to an around the walls layout with a center peninsula sticking out. We used CFL 6,000K bulbs in conjunction with Halogen under counter lights for warmth. They Halogens dim for dusk to dark effect. We noticed a problem when we were partway done around the peninsula that I have read others having-you could see the lights inside the valance on the peninsula when standing along it's edge. The valance couldn't come down any further as
Roadbed Opinions?
About to buy a large quantity of roadbed. Anyone have opinions about Midwest cork versus Woodland Scenics foam? Is there a better alternative to both other than homasote?
Reading the other posts on the site it seems most prefer cork. I should mention I will be using production flex track and caulk. No spiking of hand laid.
Thanks in advance.
Spline clamps
I've a question for the spline gurus:
In all the photo examples of spline subroadbed that I've seen, there is a plethora of large spring clamps. But I'm cheap, so I've bought a bunch of small clamps to add to my large, strong (finger-tip crushing) clamps.
Is this going to be a problem when I'm gluing spline? I'll be using the stronger clamps at support points, but my plan was to use the small ones in-between to just hold the spline together. How much force do I need on the intermediates to be adequate?
Cutting Homasote
I'm looking for suggestions for cutting homasote. I basically want to just cut 4x8 sheets down to about 2x8, and it will be glued over a plywod base. The section will be a freight yard, flat, with no special elevations. The main lines will be on cork roadbed, the rest will be cork and on the homasote.
Track modeling and roadbed choices
I've decided to use code 70 for my entire, soon to be started, layout. Have already done a fair bit of research and decided on handlaying, using CVT tie strips, ME rail, and CVT turnout ties (twist strips). I've also ordered Proto87 nickel silver frog kits as the CVT ones get less than favorable reviews.
This will be in HO scale modeling the Milwaukee Road transition period from steam to diesel in Wisconsin.
Helix Help needed
I am seeking help with a bit of a construction issue. I am building a 2 level layout, and with out scrapping the top and lowering the main level to add a 3rd level to get me to the top, and an issue with the no-lix that i wanted to do with a 2.5% grade, and run that along one 14ft wall and have it hit the second level around the other top, which now I don't think will work, with out up-ing the grade, it seems I am left to choice to go a helix route at this time.
Benchwork Method
I am about to make my pilgrimage to Home Depot for a truckload of white pine. Before I do I am curious to hear any comments you may have about my benchwork construction method. It is pretty conventional so there aren't any experimental construction aspects but I felt it prudent to bounce it off the collective wisdom of MRH readers before I begin.
Adhesive for Gluing Foam Board to Plywood
I'm about to start gluing down 2" extruded foamboard to my plywood bench top. I've been researching both the MRH and MR archives to try to find the best adhesive for this job, without much success. I've seen mentioned Liquid Nails for Projects, the type specifically for foamboard (LN-604), PL300 foamboard adhesive, ordinary acrylic latex caulk and yellow carpenter's glue.
Bachman switches
I have started a raised bed above my ho in "N" guage. Having bad success with the bachman left run switch. it shorts out the track, i,ve taken it apart checked wiring put it back together, the engine just enters the switch and stops, change direction via control then the engine starts up and derails. Driving my mind in confusion. Once in a while I can run cars separately both directions then jumps the track. Should I throw the switch away and replace with sonething else?
Helix construction
Hello all.
Well I am off building my helix to get to the second level of my layout. I am using a technique I read about in model railroader. In fact I have seen this style of construction at least two times that I can remember.
It is a simple way to build a helix. You cut out the subroadbed with a jig saw, and use spacer blocks to create the seperation between levels. Once the intial grade has been achieved (2% for me), the next levels will adopt the previous grade as you go along. I still think this is one of, if the, simplest techniques I have ever seen.
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