Alcohol - 1; Oven Cleaner - 0 !! They must not make off-brand oven cleaners as good as advertised. In short, it didn't work after several good coatings and left in a plastic bag overnight. 

I have begun building an HO scale model railroad on a dreaded 4 X 8, although my layout is actually 4' 10" X 8'. This post is really about the searchlight signals that I have built from scratch. Although I know how to solder electronics I have decided that it was about time that I learned how to work with brass. I have just finished making my first signal and I felt like sharing it with the community.

I need some help in running an electrical problem to a hole. I have installed a decoder on an Atlas S-4 and have a light but no motive power. This unit has been checked twice by myself and another person.

1. All wires are attached correctly and the decoder is good.

2. Contact shoes are in place and universals are correctly installed with no binding.

3. Positive and negative leads are soldered and there are no kinks nor bare "cuts." 

Now that I'm settled in our house after moving.  I am ready to start the process of designing the new layout.  Been considering Free-mo modules but not sure if this is the right dirrection.

Enjoy this Club Layout in Baton Rouge La. 1800 Sq Ft  HO 90% finished. 

Here's what's on my workbench this weekend:

A : A 36 ft flatcar kitbashed from an MDC cast metal underframe with a scratchbuilt superstructure and mostly Tichy details.

I guess I did not make my inquiry clear, my mistake. My question is do I solder my track joints for my layout?

Hi guys, need your help once more. Is it best to solder your track and what's the best way to do it.Also when not to solder?               

I just purchased a trolley for a static display on a non operational track on the city street scene on my railroad. The body is plastic and the windows consist of painted silhouettes on a semi-translucent film. I want to repaint the body and roof in two different colors and re-letter the trolley.