I have a couple of Proto 2000E8/9 A units that have factory installed decoders and sound. One of the units is not picking up current from the rear truck. I want to check the wiring to the truck but need some advice in how to do that. The documentation says "By removing the body shell and metal chassis weight...." however all of the electronic components and speakers are attached to it. Do I need to remove everything on the weight to remove the weight itself or is there something I'm overlooking?

Gentlemen,

I'm trying to get back into model railroading and I'm thinking of getting my feet wet by jumping in with much gusto!  I'm thinking of buying the Athearn Genesis F7 A/B SP Black Widow paint scheme diesels. 

My question is this: considering quality, functionality, cost comparison, and one's personal knowledge and ability, is it a better idea (worth it) to buy the locos without DCC and sound and install aftermarket components or buy them already so equipped? 

Does anyone know if the D&RG used a Mars Light on their PA's?  If so, which light was the Mars Light?  I am about to put decoders in my Kato PAs for my California Zephyr and would also like to change the lights if prototypical.  Not an easy task on the Kato PA but I would like to try if it would be correct.  Any help that folks might have would be appreciated. Thanks.  MC

Hey Guy's! Just got my 2 BLI Paragon 2 Southern Pacific GE AC6000's in today, SP #600 and #601. If any of you were interested in how these loco's were i can tell you this,,,"AWSOME!" lol....These babies have some of the best sounds I've heard yet, excellent low speed operation, alternating ditch lights and a horn that will make people comming down your street slow down and wonder when they installed railroad tracks in your neighborhood.