Track and electrical/DCC

A Little Friendly Advice
Hello Fellow Modelers,
It's time for the soap box to appear for a short time.
In the last twelve hours there have been a few topic posts asking for advice on how to use and install different products from a couple of DCC system manufacturers. These advice requests were not extremely technical and actually are quit common. They are also installations and uses that are covered in the manufacturers documentation (i.e. the manuals, etc.). That's the background, now for the advice.
Dead rail DCC and reed switches
I'm planning on using DEAD RAIL Components to power my layout. But I'd still like to connect the DCC portion to RR&Co to control traffic and other things. I've seen a series of you tube videos where reed switches are used for black feedback for the computer. I'd like to use NCEs system - does anyone know how to connect reed switches to NCEs AIU board to
Infra-red throttles and tunnels
I plan to install DCC to my almost-completed, 200 sq. ft. HO layout. Layout has long tunnel runs on perimeter. Will infra-red (IR) throttle system (e.g., Digitrax DT-402) function properly to the hidden track under the tunnel scenery (lots of plaster cloth, joint compound, rocks, trees, etc.)? I understand line-of-sight need for such IR system.

KATO GE DASH 8-40CW best sound decoder
I have two santa fe warbonet dash 8-40cw and am wanting to install a DCC sound decoder in each that will also run on DC as our large club layout does not have DCC yet.
Anyone have some ideas or knwo of one that works nicely.
Re-charge time for keep alive caps?
Hi all, Anyone know the re-charge time required for the common keep alive type products? In a case where a sound equipped engine runs along a yard ladder using a bit of the cap power at each dead frog would the cap be able to re-charge between each turnout to keep doing it's job? I'm trying to figure out how much dead rail time a cap equipped engine can tolerate compared to it's live rail time. I'd like to eliminate frog wiring and just use switch stands and ground throws on my new layout......DaveB

Intermitent short
I have a newer Shinohara double crossover with tortoise machines. One of the switches trips the PSX-1as it throws reverse but once fully thrown it goes away. It does not trip when thrown normal. I am thinking is a problem with the contacts in the tortoise. Anyone have any ideas?
New module, researching Proto87
Having done research on handlaid turnouts, I think I'll go with the Proto87 kits that are available. They seem interesting, and would give me something to do for a while. But, upon looking at their other products, the proto wheel sets caught my eye. They sure look good, but I'm not sure if it's worth it to have every piece of rolling stock having proto87 features. (Especially finding larger wheels for GG1's) Plus, I like the Athearn rotating bearing trucks enough to have them on all my cars with bearings.
Tortoise installation problem
The hardest thing for me in installing a Tortoise machine is getting the spring wire to go up through the hole in the table and then through the little hole in the drawbar. From the top you can't see the spring wire and from the bottom you can't see the hole in the draw bar. Anybody got a trick for doing this easily?
Peco #SLU8363 Information Needed
For some reason Peco has yet to post any tecnnical information on the website concerning the #SLU8363 Code 83 Unifrog #6 Double Slip. Information on vendor sites is just the marketing blub.
As this is based their #6 crossover and is listed as a #6 "switch" does that mean the angle is 9.5 degrees and the effective radius is 43 inches (as in their SL-8362 turnout)?
Anyone have any experience with this? or any of their other double slip turnouts?
Thanks
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