Benchwork and roadbed

how do you secure Kato track
My club is building an N scale T-Trak modular layout. The Rhode Island & Old Colony RR. I have two modules (boxes) built; BUT, how can I secure the track to the 1/4 inch birch plywood? The plywood is too hard for nails. The only thing I can think of that might work is super glue.

6x10 vs shelf?
I'm just trying to get some advice, I'm about to embark on building a new layout and have been draw to the layout design used in the Greenfrog Productions video series, the apple valley branch layout. Designed by Jim Hediger.
My question is, does anybody build this style of layout anymore? I notice the trend is most definitely modular shelf, and around the room layouts.
Model Railroad Layout grade dimensions
Hey fella's, I know that model trains can usually only climb a 2% grade properly without stalling or having wheel spin-out when pulling multiple train cars - Her's the situation - On a room size layout in a small room and using a "wrap-a-round-the-wall" shelf style layout that is short of space but you want to have a continuous run around the whole layout and back to the point of origin again - Now this would be no problem on a single level layout but you add an upper level to represent traveling through mountainous area's - So y

Paint it or leave it?
Ive been thinking about painting the undersides of my upper decks white, both to seal the plywood and also to maybe help with the lighting of the deck below. Good idea or needless extra effort?
thanks
Randy
Dropgate construction suggestions
In the Model Railroad Planning 2015 article on Gary Hoover's new N&W layout there are a few photos and a brief description of how he constructed a drop gate to access part of the layout. It got me to thinking that this type of access might work well on my layout as I have to put a gate across the access door to the layout room. I have gotten underway with some 3/4" plywood for the roadbed and purchased some hinges etc.
Backbone Helix questions
I am going to be building my helix this weekend and looking for suggestions on how best to form the backbone of the helix. I saw the references in MRR annual books for a backbone style helix and even found one reference to one online (http://maparr1943.blogspot.com/) but I haven't found how people go about bending the masonite/hardboard into the radius required for the backbone or how they go about securing it at the bottom/top to hold it into the right shape.
So, what do people suggest?

Size of materials
Not being a carpenter, cabinet maker, or structural engineer, I need some help.
The common wisdom for big layouts in recent years has been a top layer of 3/4" five- to seven-ply board, with a supporting structure of 1x4 equivalents.
My question: We're doing HO. For a shelf layout with spans of no more than 8' in length and 16" in depth, how far can I scale back those material sizes? Will a well-designed 1/4" supporting layer be sufficient? How deep does it need to be? Would a 3/8" top layer be rigid?
Shelf Layout Benchwork
Hi All, I got an email asking for some input on shelf layout benchwork here was the question :
Sound Deadening Board on Plywood Subroadbed
Local Home Depot has 1/2-inch 4x8 sheets of "Sound Deadening Board" that is not as dense or heavy as Homasote.
I need help finding these gizmos
I'm stumped. The folding spindle handle on the vise in the picture below is what I'm after. I've seen this arrangement elsewhere - the folding handle on a shaft - but I can't track down a source for them. The manufacturer of the vise in the picture gives part numbers for every item in their line EXCEPT THIS ONE!
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