A close up of my first attempt to ballast the track. It is rather messy and I will need to clean things up a bit before

doing more ballasting.

T

I have added two tunnel portals to conceal the track ends. Here the foam has been cut and glued in place.

I have kitbashed an old Heljan factory kit to make a long flat for the East end of the layout. I am playing around with some completed structures to see how they fit and how they can hide tack ends.

Thiis appears to be N scale. Fine fine Ballest. Take time to get Ballest in place with 1" paint brush. When you are happy take the bush turn it around and tap the top of the rails with wooden handle. The viberation will move all the excess pieces off of the top of the ties. Spray with wet water, mist, when wet apply 60 water 40 white glue mixture come back in two days.

Try to find as small a grind of ballast as you can. It will make a lot of visual difference.

You commented on my recent ballast work in another thread, so I'll offer a few words here.

1. The observations you're getting on ballast size are valid.  It looks like you're using HO size or other coarse ballast.  A finer product will help immensely.  Scenic Express (an MRH sponsor) has "#50" size ballast for N scale and it or a similar product should work great for N.  It's real rock and will be easier to work with for a newcomer to ballast than lightweight materials that float around or are affected by static.
2. Use less.  There's a lot of excess material evident in the photos.  Fill only to the level of the ties and remove extra ballast before gluing.  This will be simpler with finer material.
3. Paint the track first.  Shiny rails and uniformly colored ties really stand out after ballast is applied.  Painting the track is quick, and can be done with an airbrush, spray can or even a brush.  I sometimes use acrylic craft paint applied with an artist's brush.  Note that it's usually harder to get even coverage on the rails with brush painting, so multiple coats may be required.
4. Use photos for everything.  Copying what you see on the prototype is easier than trying to remember what you think track should be.  Keep a stack of photos handy in the work area and refer to them often.
5. Ballasting involves some patience, as well as skill that can only be had from practice.  Keep it up and you'll improve.

Best of luck to you!

I found a video that you might find helpful.  It's always good to see someone else do it first! 

http://youtu.be/VlBAkAKfKjo

Thank you for all the helpful comments. I plan to clean up the section of track (about 1 foot on three different tracks) and get some fine N scale ballast. I will start with rail and tie weathering. I am thinking that the Woodland Scenic pens are the way I am going to go.

Stay tuned, I will post more photos as I make some progress.

Jim

hi jim...i thought I'd put my 2 cents in...here is a section of "N" scale track that i have ballasted using woodland scenics fine ballast. i do tend to agree with bob..real stone ballast would be easier to work with

vinny

www.bnsf6951.blogspot.com

Thanks for the link to the video. I really found that helpful. I am going to find that fine ballast and try a small section again.

Jim