It's always good to have alternate benchwork methods available.

My layout has to be portable and has to share space with my library, so my library's utility cabinets do double duty as benchwork for the layout.

But even if you rely on the old standards like L-girder construction, you may have one or two areas where something different might allow you to make better and/or more varied use of a particular space.

I hads once considered buying the same thing you are using before I discovered the Woodland Scenic's Mod-U-Rail System. Even after I considered gettingshelving to put under the supports from Ikea but ruled it out as it would have required me to create some wooden supports for the Ikea shelving. After looking at what I've got and the fact that I can create the shelving I need without buying anything since I have 48" by 40" scap of 1/2" pywood leftover from the remodeling job we did on the house in 2004/2005 and that can be cut to the dimensions needed to provide the shelving to support the stuff that will eventually be stored under the layout. This stuff will work out fine if I ever get it cut to the right dimensions with my saber saw. If I had access to a table saw it woud be mcuh better but it is more than a 1 man job. Right now I have no helpers since my wife and sons are busy working.

Irv

Nice idea thanks for sharing this. I would like to see what the layout is like as he goes on especially any notes on how he does track and how the benchwork handles trackwork and wiring etc...

Chris,

Thomas (Scarpia) is a very regular poster to his blog(s) on the MRH forum.  Check out the "22 Stoires Up - Module 1" thread.  http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/3314

One of the things that's impressed me about Scarpia's modeling has been his willingness to just jump in and try new stuff. Instead of agonizing about what the exact best way to do something might be, he takes a shot at it.  And his results have been pretty impressive!  Check out his previous thread: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/1072 to see what he did while he was still modling in Vermont...

Best regards,

Charlie

I'm not sure if I understand you, Irv. The Ikea shelving doesn't need supports, or do you mean that you looked at trying to fit Ikea shelving pieces to the Woodland Scenic Modules?

Either way, one of the enlightening things about this project has been the ability to track expenditures. I hadn't considered the Woodland Scenic's modules; to you know what they are going to cost you when it's finished? 

I looked at their site, and the cost of the supports averages around $30 a piece from online vendors. I'd estimate that it would require me at least 8 sections to duplicate what I have (although the overall dimensions wouldn't be the same), which would be $240 without shipping, basically the same price as the Ikea shelving - minus the actual shelving, of course. (just so we're clear, this is the straight section of the support from WS I'm talking about).

I think the WS modules may be a great option for some folks. Can you relate how difficult they are to assemble?

Thanks for your note Chris, but Charlie is being overly generous, but he's right about one thing - it's fun to jump in and get started.

The actual construction of the layout was started here with a full scale mock up

22 Stories up: Building the Barre Branch in Paper

and will be going section by section - the first section is getting close to having the track fully in place.

22 Stories up: Module 1.

Feedback is welcome! 

...at first. I did consider it once I had several modules put together as there is a space underneath that can be used for shelving. I dropped the idea when I realized I had those sheets of plywood in the garage. Another reason i gave up on the Ikea stuff is that it either wasn't wide enough or too wide. You see they were either 15" or 24" so I'd either have to install shelves anyway or cut them down. I just need to cut the wood I already have to the right size and notch them to fit around the wood that serves as legs. I've put drawings below:

You'll note that there are three versions of these stands. The dfimensions of each is shown as well. You should note that these dimensions are outside dimensions whixh is OK as far as major cutting of the plywood sheets is concerned. The legs are placed in the inside corners so each shelf needs to be notched to fit around them. So I'll need to do that once I have the pieces cut o the outside dimensions.

I've measured the stands to make sure that everything is correct as sometimes when the stands are screwed together they are anywhere from 1/4 inch larger or smaller than the advertised dimensions. That is a function of how accurately you layout the wood since the holes through everything but the wooden legs are predrilled. If you look at the benchwork plan eblow you'll see how many of these stands I would need,

Please note at this poin I won't be using the Woodland Scenics stands for the two 18" x 36" modules in top center as there is what used to be a bedroom dresser under the benchwork which I am using for storageright now. It has been there since my father and I relocated it from the master bedroom in 1982. This piece was left behind when the previous occupant of this house was moved into a nursing home in 1981. We got the house through an estate sale so there was other furniture here as well. All was discarded except this piece because it was good and has proved useful for the previous layout as well as this one.

While looking at the plan you'll note that there are other sections that measure less than the Woodland Scenics sections. These are fitter pieces that are or will be custom made by me. Four of them exist curently (each meases 12" x 18" and are made out of 4" wide basswood held together by screws) since I still need to buy three more stands (one corner and two straight). You'llnote that I still need to make one fitter peice that will measure 3" x 18" and another that will measure 7" x 18". I am not sure how to make these yet as the 3" wide piece might not need a wooden box to support it.

The sections that will cover the dresser also need to be custom made and I have decided what to use yet since I need to have a couple  of outlets moved lower so that they aren't blocked by the wood that supports the foam plastic that makes the suface on which I the scenery and track will be laid. It may not seem sturdy but it is good enough for N-Scale which doesn't weigh all that much to begin with.

I looked at costs when I decided to go into the building a new layout. So I planned that the bench work using the Woodland Scenics stuff would cost several hundred dollars which is about what the Ikea stuff would cost. Then I realized that the wife might (and that has since been emphatically confirmed) might object to having the finished tops of the Ikea furniture used for somethingas mundane as my "toy trains." Given that a wise man once told me that in marriage it is good thing to pick one's battles I decided to use the Woodland Scenics stuff as there would one thing less that become controversial.

As for the ease of putting the woodland Scencis Stands together, well all you need are a hammer, a screw driver and plier. However, i found having soem power tools that can serve in the role of a screwdriver would be advisable since it makes the job of screwing the screws into the material is much easier that way.

Above you'll see how the section along the left wall looked before I built the center penninsula. It's pretty messy but you can see one of those moveable drawer sections under one of the fitter sections on the right. Thedre are now four of these and they can hold lots of stuff. You'll also see what the dresser I spoke about looks like and one of the outlets that need to be moved.

Irv

Thomas,

Thank you for sharing your stories about building your layouot in very different surroundings.

Your ability to dive in and do something and try different aproaches is inspiring. And you  do have the capability to share this with us others. Great story and this became also the first article I read in this MRH.

I think Gorm is a line Ikea came out with after I bought my benchwork form them.  I bought the Ikea Ivar unfinished pine bookshelves for my benchwork.  It is too narrow for my 2 foot wide module bases, and the Ivar uses a system of pins to support the shelves.  I will bolt my module bases directly to the support posts on the Ivar shelving, and let it overhang to the front by 6 inches or so.

Russ, I've ended up with about a 3" overhang; my modules are 24" wide, the shelves 20" and the leg width another 1".  I actually like this to a degree, it means my feet are less likely to kick the legs as the are set back just a bit (I arranged them so the back of the module is tight to the posts and the overhang is on the front).

Stability with this configuration has NOT been a problem either. I'm not intending to attach the modules to the shelves at all, but instead just rely on their weight (the modules will be attached to each other though).

I'd like to thank folks in general for their feedback; I hope that they are encouraged to look at other options that fit their own situation.

KnUT, thanks for your note - but in full disclosure, the first Artilce I read in this issue was Kevin's Washington Northern!

This looks like a good option for anyone who lacks the tools or the shop space to build their own bench work.  I'll be interested to see how the ikea shelving performs once the modules go on top.

A nice, neat, easy to assemble, base for the railroad.  Thanks for sharing it Scarp.

Great idea for benchwork. I have always said that IKEA was a hardware store for women. I guess we men can find something there for us, also. How steady are the benches and I would think it might be a little noisy. I would be interested to know what would be used for the roadbed on benchwork like that.

Strength and stability is good - not great - actually. Kind of what you'd actually expect. Plenty for a model railroad.

I had a reason to climb on top of the setup yesterday, and it was plenty stable with my 210 lbs frame on it.  The metal crosspieces are vital, and I expect it to firm up considerably once the modules are all connected together.

The noise factor right now doesn't seem that bad; I am using cork on top of foam, on top of 1/2 sanded plywood.

I used to shun Ikea as well, Karl (helped by the fact that it was a 2.5 hour drive from my house in the States), but I've been damn glad they are here - there's not much else like this. Which actually brings up a great point - you dont' have to use Ikea shelving; there may very well be a similar option available to folks in their local area!

Looking for a benchwork idea for my layout expantion into my theater room. This may be the solution i am looking for. Are the shelves strong enough to hold books or LP's?

MRH, keep these kinds of articals comming. Too often the layout support is ignored.

I would not recommend them for Books & LPs, the shelves are slats, not a solid flat surface, and those can be bad for long term storage of print media. Maybe they have something else on hand that would work though?

I wonder if you could cover the slats with a piece of 1/4 inch plywood for LP storage. Looks like the shelves are made from 1x4 pine boards. Hard to tell just looking at the photos. I dont have an Ikea store around here.

Many thanks, Tom. I live in a single story "quad-plex" - rent, not own. I currently have a "chainsaw layout" - N scale 4' x 4' - and will some time soon work toward something permanent (also in N scale). As I have been reading much lately, the idea of a shelf format becomes more desirable (getting tired of the "round-and-round" layout format). This Gorm product looks really tempting for me, since I must keep it "portable", but sturdy. Your blog on the "22 stories up" action has been very informative and inspiring and, the plus, there is an IKEA only ten miles away.

For others interested, here is a link on the Gorm system at IKEA:

www.ikea.com/us/en/search/

I think the Ikea shelving you would want to check out is Ivar.  It is undecorated solid pine.  The shelves are @1/2 inch pine glued into a butcher block with steel brackets embedded into each end of the shelves to rest on pins in the legs.  Ivar uses the same steel "X" brace for stopping flex.

Thanks for your feedback Bill. I will say I'm looking at adding a small loop for loco testing and break in (currently planning on an 18r sectional round), so a round-and-round isn't always bad! 

Thanks for your feedback Bill. I will say I'm looking at adding a small loop for loco testing and break in (currently planning on an 18r sectional round), so a round-and-round isn't always bad! 

Pizza? Anyone?........ 

Just for the info;

whenever putting together "Ikea" furniture, make sure to put extra wood glue (carpenters glue) on the to be assembled pieces. On the long run you will not regret this.

It's a good isea whenever you assemble something made out of wood. Please don't ask me how I know.

Irv

Yes, I agree about the glue. Two days ago I repaired the small computer desk I had bought and assembled for my granddaughter last year (one of those particle board "wonders" with the "ready to assemble fasteners" for particle board furniture - I should have known better; the joints just don't last long). The IKEA Dorm system uses "real" wood, but then glue is a very good idea.

@scarpia - Tom, do you have a sketch of how that sections fits in with the rest of the layout or is it separate ?

Is this something like a "dogbone"?

Bill, no sketch needed. The roundy round will be not part of the layout, instead I am thinking of hard soldering a snap track loop simply for locomotive testing and break in (working with my recent 0-8-0 conversion made me realize that I have this need).

I fully expect the loop to be used on my work table when needed.

There is the capability of the layout to handle a full round the room circuit; but I'd rather not consider that until after it has been built as designed - I've had enough delays in progress as it is! 

I will be keeping an eye out for more progress. Your construction methods and portability design is an inspiration. Keep up the good work.

"Baby steps"? Well, with the inspiration of your modular design and especially the creative use of the IKEA Gorm products, I "went to IKEA". Picked up enough today for two sections, including spare posts, in case I need to use your abandoned remedy for the switch machine interference. It will be quite some time before I get my modules assembled and start putting down track, structures and scenery, but I have started with the "benchwork" acquisition.

Cost total $62.00 (without CA state sales tax).

4 ea. Shelves 20" x 30" @ $7.00 ea.

6 pr. Posts 43 " @ $4.00 pr.

2 ea. Cross-brace 39" @ 5.00 ea.

The local IKEA (Costa Mesa), ten miles up the highway, is well stocked with Gorm components.

The sooner I assemble, the sooner I will get to the module construction. Since I am in N scale, I will make the modules 24" x 30". This should accommodate about half the "real estate" I intend for the near future layout (probably reverse loops at the ends to be added - dimensions not quite decided on yet). Main focus is last quarter of 20th century UP in the Mojave. Portability is high in priority - I am a renter.

(Edit: corrected cost total)

Just now realized I bought 1 pair of posts I did not need. When using two sections joined, a pair of posts are common to adjacent shelves - oops. I should have re-examined the Figure 5 - Nov/Dec 2010 Issue - (I had captured it for reference a while back). Using a pair of posts common to two sections provides joining of the shelf units without additional hardware. Oh, well, so I have a spare pair now.

They have a very good return policy.  If the extra posts you bought are sold separately and you haven't lost any of the paperwork or hardware that comes with them, you can return them for a refund within what I would consider a very reasonable time frame.  I think they allow you 3 months for returns from original purchase date.

For portable construction you want strength with light weight.  If you haven't picked up a copy,yet, pick up the March 2011 copy of Railroad Model Craftsman and check out the article on using poly iso foam for bench work.  Also check out Bragdon Enterprises at www.Bragdonet.com for lightweight strong scenery materials.  His materials are not the least expensive way to build a l ayout, but at a train show a few years ago, I went to his workshop on using his products.  He had a 2foot x 3 foot section of scenery with track that he built for demonstration purposes.  It weighed 7lbs total.  He also mentioned that while driving to So Cal in his van that he had a 100 lb fall on that piece and road all the way down from No Cal with the corner of the box bouncing on one spot on the module.   There was no damage done to the module at all!

@Russ - I'll keep the extra posts, rather than getting a refund. They cost less ($4.00/pair) than the mileage to their store (even though they are only ten miles away) - I will, most likely, expand some day not so soon and will find them of value. It is good to remember their exchange/refund policies - they are a "friendly" company.

I cacelled my sub to RMC three years ago, although I enjoyed building a library of almost three years and I go back to them often. I will see if I can get a copy of the March issue to look into the poly iso foam for bench work. Also,  I will look at the Bragdon Enterprises site (name does sound familiar).

I got ambitious yesterday afternoon and completed the assembly of the Gorm shelving (worked up a real sweat) and was happy with the results.

@Scarpia - In fastening my cross-braces, I discovered that you may have bought a shorter brace. They come in 24" and 39" lengths. Mine are 39" and so they can be attached to the posts - did you buy a different length? Since my initial unit is two shelves wide, I anchor the braces on the middle post at the same point (one screw common to each brace).

 (Edit: @Russ - That link is Bragdonent.com - not Bragdonnet.com :))

I went back to the site two or three times to try to find out what I did wrong, but I had an appointment to run to so I had to leave before I found the problem.  I edited the original post that I made for Bragdon's url, but yahoo still can't find it or anything even close to it.  The funny thing is the if you put it in Google, it comes right up!