Benchwork and roadbed

eastwind's picture

saw blade for ripping masonite for splines

I have kind of a specific question. The background to it may ignite the table saw debate again, but that's not really part of my question.

I am planning to buy a track saw to use for layout building instead of a table saw. I'm just not comfortable with that '10 amputations per day due to table saw use' statistic. (Maybe it's bogus, but I saw it).

My Helix Build

    The first bench work to go into my layout will be the helix. Track radius is 36 inches with about seven rotations. Percent of grade works out to be about 1.90 %. The helix serves three levels; a staging level (lowest level) a main level (middle) and an upper level (top). I chose 5/8 inch plywood for my building material and 5/16 inch diameter support rods.

Shadow Box Shelf Layouts

Hi all, just starting to get to the bench work stage of my HO layout as my garage is being converted next week. I'm thinking of a layout height of 130 cm/51". It will be 18" deep.

My question is what sort of distance do people leave between the top of the layout and the bottom of the facia of the shadow box?

Cheers Lee

Attn "prrfirefighter" : CoroPlast/Fluteboard

Dear Darren (prrfirefighter),

Unsure if your email (direct contact) is playing-fair or not,
but RE your question about Coroplast/Fluteboard, you may want to check out the following...

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/18802?page=2#comment-158111

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

dave1905's picture

Fascia Installation Helpers

When installing my fascia its tough to handle long thin pieces of Masonite around corners.

To assist in this I made these little brackets from scraps of plywood.  The brackets have step in them support the fascia at a standard distance below the joists and a little lip to keep the fascia from sliding off the end of the support.  All the plywood pieces are just glued together.

dave1905's picture

The Fascia is Up

The fascia is up from Birdsboro to the end of the peninsula and the first coat of paint is on.

All of the switch linkages in Birdsboro are in, as well as the car card boxes.  Inching ever closer to operations.

BboroFascia1

BboroFascia2

kh25's picture

Narrow peninsula.

What is the best way to build a 6' x1' peninsula that is attached to the existing bench work at the end. Sturdy enough if the free standing end gets bumped into it won't knock the cars off the track?

herronp's picture

Cork roadbed revisited..............

................from a topic thread of a number of weeks ago.  I had espoused using rolled cork cut with a chop saw and put down with water based contact cement.  A number of folks were concerned about the lack of a beveled edge and the thinness of the cork. 

Here's a few pictures of freshly ballasted track (O scale, code 100 rail) from my layout.  

Moving and Rebuilding Layout

I'm 'reconstructing' my layout-- moving it from an upstairs guest room to the basement in which I have better space to work with.
I built an open framework benchwork and covered it with 2" insulation board with Woodland Scenic's 'Track-bed' as my roadbed. Unfortunately this combination seemed to 'drum' or echo the sounds of the train as it passed along which I found very disconcerting.
This time around I'm considering using 2x8 sections (domino's?) which I will put together for my benchwork.

Alternatives to Plywood

I was searching through the posts for less expense alternatives to plywood.  We all know that cost of plywood has sky rocketed so any suggestions would be appreciated.

Any photos or videos of alternatives would be helpful as well.

Thanks. . .


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