I've always just used the standard Atlas Code 100 joiners. They seem to work fine - the only time I tried Code 83 joiners (I don't think they were Atlas though) they were too tight to fit over the rails.

I am a little crazy about this type of stuff, and I have used the Atlas joiners, although I cut them in half because they are just too big. In fact, since the base of the rail is the same size for Atlas Code 100 and Code 83, either joiner will work for the Atlas track. What I have found, however, is that Atlas N scale joiners will work fine to join HO code 83 track together and that is what I have used of late. I really like the Micro Engineering joiners, but, yes they are a little difficult to get on the rail, the answer to that problem is to just file a taper onto the end of the base of the rail and then the joiner should slip on. I do NOT like the Walthers joiners, but that is just a preference. I tried them once and did not have a lot of success with them, but that was on ME rail. The trouble with ME joiners is that they are NOT cheap, for about 1/4 of the price or 1/3 you can buy the Atlas N-scale (Code 80, not Code 55) joiners. They look much better and hold the rail well. You really do want a snug joint, so just tapering the rail ends should help out. The other option, (here I go again with Proto87 stores) is to use his rail joiners. They are a little funny, but they will join any rail to anything else with NO shims. Yes, it works, particularly when you follow his instructions (Although it helps that he's posted a picture on how to use them, once you do it his way SHAZAM!!) They end up kind of disappearing, which is nice. You can, of course, still see them, but they are far less noticable. The price is 3.95 for 30 joiners, so they are more than Atlas, but less than ME and are far less obvious. The link to order those is http://www.proto87.com/accurate-track.html and scroll down to HO Easy Rail end aligners. To see how they're used, visit this MRH thread.

I will try to get some decent pictures of them in use.

Jim L (TB)

Primarily use Atlas Code 83 track with some Walthers Code 83 turnouts for special situations.  The Walthers rail joiners are a tight fit, but I like them and use them exclusivey on my layout.

The other option, (here I go again with Proto87 stores) is to use his rail joiners

I have seen those on the site and am interested.. was hoping to see them in use before I bought some. I would love to see pictures of your install as well as any more thoughts about using them..

Chris

I have seen those on the site and am interested.. was hoping to see them in use before I bought some. I would love to see pictures of your install as well as any more thoughts about using them..

Chris

No problem Chris! I think, now that I know how to use them, that the Proto87 joiners are the BOMB! They allow you align different rail codes easily, and really do kind of disappear if you install them correctly. What they allow you to do is use his details to add prototypical looking joint bars at each joint. I will attempt to improve my photography (instead of just using my iPhone for everything) and post a How-to on their use. The important thing with them is that you have to install them correctly otherwise you will think they are seriously dumb. For the price, I don't think I will ever use anything else.

Jim L (TB)

Ho scale rail joiners were never a problem when I used to be in that scale 30 years ago. You could both see the rail joiners and you could easily handle them.

N-Scale is a different story because handling the rail joiners can often leave marks and wounds on one's fingers and hands. Needle-nose pliers are a requirement to work with them and it is almost a necesity to soder them as well if you want to use them to join flex track.

Here is what I do when I lay flex-track and need to join two pieces and create a curve with them. I use a 1" fitter from the Atlas tracj assortment and insert that between tow pieces of flex track. I then solder that fitter to the two piecws of flex track. I then create the curve I need. I'll still need to trim one of thtracks as curving te lfex track will guranted that one rail will be longer than the other. I do this with a track cutter. You still need to clean up the cut end but once you track is down and ballasted, no will know the difference. Jst make sure you install the wires to power the flex track sections before you balast.

Irv

Guys, thanks for the info, just wanted to know what the big boys preferred. I know that either Atlas or Walthers code 83 joiners will work but being somewhat anal about anything I do, I posed the question. Being new to the hobby and wanting to get the best results I can afford, I question any and options available, be it track, turnouts, ballasting techniques whatever. I just want to do things the right way within my abilities and budget. I want to thank everyone for the options suggested. I will explore all of the possibilities identified and go with the least conspicuous joiner possible. Thanks, Tom

Tom,

Just so that I'm clear on my suggestion (I'm not sure if I was ...) if you are using flextrack or commercial turnouts, use Atlas N-scale rail joiners, they are the best mix of economy, size and appearance. I (that's just me now) would not use HO scale joiners from either Atlas or Walthers ever again. Yes, they work fine, particularly if you solder all of the joints, however, for the same money, the N-scale joiners will be a tighter fit and look a whole lot better. I am not sure, because I have not tried them for this, that the Proto87 joiners would work well for flex track. They would need to be soldered, of course, but since I have no experience with them that way, I can't really say. But they are not that expensive, you could try them out. Another good thing about them is that since they are all on a single fret, you won't spill them out and lose any. Small thing ....

If you are handlaying, or using ME track, I would use the rail joiners from Proto87 Stores, end of the story. Unfortunately the lighting in my basement is such that I can't get really good photos and there is no macro on the iPhone so the closer I get (I am amazed at how well that phone takes pics in low light, considering) the image is just blurry. The trouble is that I have to get really close with the Proto87 joiners for them to be visible in a photo.

Jim L (TB)

I use a mix of Atlas Code 83 and ME Code 83 and Hand-laid track. In my case, hidden trackage and staging, etc is atlas, and I use ME Rail to handlay the rest, including fastracks turnouts.

I use Micro-Engineering rail joiners, with a caveat, that I will explain.

I can't take credit for this--I think I saw this trick used in an older edition of the MRH (shameless plug!).

Since the ME railjoiners (code 70/83, or HO/N) work on the ME Rails just fine, this only comes into play when I have to join rails from ME to Atlas.  I have a section of ATLAS rail (about 3" long, any scrap piece of rail will do) that I have filed the base of the rail down on.
By that, I mean that I filed down the sides of  the bottom or the "T" section of the rail. I only filed it on the end, and gradually tapered it to the normal width of the atlas rail.  I also have dipped this rail in red paint so that I can tell it's the "spreader" rail from the other scrap rail I throw in the tool tray--you get the idea.

In this manner, I am able to slide the ME railjoiner onto the atlas rail without too much fuss, and use the tapered section to "spread" the sides of the railjoiner out enough that it will slip on to the atlas rail on the layout.

Yes--I still use the needle nose pliers to put them on the rails, I've chewed up my thumbs and forefingers enough to know better!

Yes--I still use the needle nose pliers to put them on the rails, I've chewed up my thumbs and forefingers enough to know better!

Amen, DRLoco, amen.

Another point about ME railjoiners, just for the record, they're great and until I found the Proto87 Stores joiners, they were the joiner of choice. They are, however, the most expensive option, as a pack of 50 can run you $9-$10, Atlas N-scale joiners are $2.75-$3.5 and the Proto87 are a hair under $4. If you use the ME railjoiners to join Atlas track, the good Dr's suggestion is excellent and you also might want to cut off the little tab that is on each end of the joiner (you will know what I mean when you see them.) What invariably happens is that tab gets bent up when you are trying to join rail together that you can't quite see and you will drive yourself crazy wondering why you can't slide the joiner on the end of the rail. One benefit of the ME joiners is that they really hold the rail ends well and you could get away with not soldering some of the joints if you use them, although I would always solder on curves.

Well, this is a pretty sorry photo, but here are the Proto87 joiners

Jim (TB)