Backdrops

OSCR's picture

Hello everyone. 

Something i've been putting off has been backdrops. An important feature of a model railrad. A friend of mine doesn't really like the photo backdrops as he says it takes away from the modelled portion of the layout. But as one of the backdrop providers says on their website, a backdrop is a model too. 

I'm proficient with Adobe Photoshop and with editing I can produce a nice backdrop with high quality images, if I have them. 

I've used masonite in the past and even curved around the corners, but I don't have a car to transport the materials from up the road. It is cost effective. However, I've decided to go with foamboard from our Dollar store, cheap and at 2 1/2 feet wide, 20 " tall (that i'll have to ajust to proper height) as a starting base. 

Now, with a 10' wall, I will have seems. It 'seems' inevitable in photos of other great layouts with their fantastic backdrops. I went the same route with foam board 5 locations ago when I first started my Ontario South Central layout and tried to spackle and sand the seem. But it didn't work. I never got round to painting them before I was on the move. 

Here is a mock up of 1 foamboard I cut in half. As you can see there are wires from the lighting going vertical down the wall. Stapling the wires horizontally is an option. But I would prefer the backdrop meeting the ceiling at 20" tucked behind the lights.

My question to you, what would be the best method to hiding the seems? The backdrops on backdrop providers websites i've seen only come in at 6' feet max. And I would go with the most minimal design and layer my own images on top especially where road meets the wall, etc. And at their price of close $100 usd plus shipping to Toronto I just don't see it as cost effective as I won't be happy with the results. The other option is to design the backdrop and send to printer and get a roll with adhesive but I would need high res photos and I could intersperse them. Another thing I decided was to have taller structures, silos, maybe even a cel tower, where the seem meets. I once saw a layout here they had a seem in the backdrop,and a tall water tower just left of it!

So ideas please of what you do to make realistic looking backdrops without the eye being disrupted with the dredded seem problem.

Thank in advance,

Brad, Toronto

 

 

Comments

Foam joints?

  Back in my boat building days I'd edge glue foam core using toothpicks to align the sheets til the glue set. I used epoxy glue and could thicken it with micro balloons to make a sandable filler. Something cheaper for a layout backdrop would be to glue it with foam construction adhesive and fill and smooth with thin sheet rock mud. Foam is very porous so would need a skim coat before painting unless it is paper faced foam ( then you have to wonder if the paper is going to eventually peel off) . If I only needed 10 feet of backdrop I'd buy a 4 by 8 sheet of sheetroock and cut it into 4 by 20 inch tall sections( or whatever height you need) at the store parking lot if necessary  and then just tape and smooth the joints. ....DaveB

mspanton's picture

Rick, always admire your

Rick, always admire your work! Nice arid feel to it.

- Milt
The Duluth MISSABE and Iron Range Railway in the 50's - 1:87

jimfitch's picture

I don't know if I could pull

I don't know if I could pull off something like Rob Spangler's most excellent back drops.  The alternative could be photo back drops which can look quite good if done right.

Some of my scene dividers will ideally need Masonite or hardboard that is smooth on both sides. Is such a beast made?

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

 

Is such a beast made?

Hi Jim, I've seen two sided hardboard in the past. I can't recall what it was called though. Probably easier to just cut two pieces of masonite and install  them back to back......DaveB

Michael T.'s picture

"Masonite" that is smooth on

"Masonite" that is smooth on both sides is what is now normally available at my local Lowe's home improvement. I can't seem to find the stuff that is rough on one side anymore and I've taken to saving scraps of it to make pads for John Allen style track cleaning cars.

Michael

Original member of the "Gang of Six"

R.I.P. Verne Niner. The time I got to know you was way too short my friend.

"We all model the prototype, to suggest otherwise is ridiculous"

My Pike, https://mrhmag.com/blog/MichaelT

 

jimfitch's picture

Hmm.  I've casually looked at

Hmm.  I've casually looked at my local Lowes, and it was rough on one side.  But I haven't done an exhaustive search yet.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

 

Guys those are some beautiful

Guys those are some beautiful backdrops.

 

Jeff

Michael T.'s picture

I've also noticed that if you

I've also noticed that if you specifically use the word  "Masonite" many of the folks in the big box stores have no idea what you're talking about. They just know it as hardboard. I have mine ripped in halves, threes or fours at the store depending on what I'm using it for and I can carry it in a Honda CRV with just a little bending.

As far as the foamcore and the masking tape, I used the beige/buff stuff that the painters use and I found the two edges of the tape were finer and looked better to me than the coarser single seam between the boards. Still though, it would be best to finish it with something. Spackling compound was off the top of my head. So called "lightweight spackle" is different, I use it too for certain applications but it doesn't have a lot of stick to it. Might try dabbing it on the tape edges with a finger and then working it with a slightly damp sponge.

Michael

Original member of the "Gang of Six"

R.I.P. Verne Niner. The time I got to know you was way too short my friend.

"We all model the prototype, to suggest otherwise is ridiculous"

My Pike, https://mrhmag.com/blog/MichaelT

 

jimfitch's picture

Got it pardner.  I already

Got it pardner.  I already speak both Masonite and Hardboard to make sure both bases are covered.  wink

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

 

I've always wondered if

you could join foamcore sheets with 2 inch clear shipping tape.  It's extremely thin.  You would have to primer the whole surface before the final colors.  If you're lookin' at the edge of this tape, then the background must not be too interesting.  Test it on some scrap pieces to see if you like it and let us know.


>> Posts index


Journals/Blogs

Recent Blog posts: