Trackwork
Question from the long experienced
I am working on a 4x8 for the up and coming generation (my 5 year old)
I've been using atlas code 100 NS track (flex and TO's.)
The dumb question of the day:
If you KNOW a layout wont last more than 2 years, is there REALLY a reason not to use Brass track? i'll still use NS for the Flex, but MAN oh MAN, the price on brass turnout outs is CHEAP, well not really cheap, more like, FREE + shipping.as compared to new code 100 TO's at an average of $ 18 a piece......
are there any real techniques to minimize maintenance?
frog numbers and track radii
If a Peco code 75 small radius point equals 24" when it comes to curve radius, is this equivalent to a #4 switch in U.S. Terminology? What then does the curved leg of a #5 switch equal?
I've been trying to find a conversion table somewhere but have had no luck.
Peco express radius by the inch except for the code 83 line which is expressed in U.S. style frog numbers, so what is the equivalent of a #5 in inches?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Warren
Handlaid Curved Turnout Frustration
OK, I've been following the "modified Tony Koester method" for handlaying turnouts for a couple years now. For me, this means pre-laying the ties on roadbed, with PC ties replacing wood ties at strategic points, i.e.

Need help with ballasting issues and woes
Ballasting trackwork is an area of weakness for me. I've begun ballasting the track on my layout recently. It's HO scale on masonite splines with styrofoam terrain covered with plaster cloth and Joe's plaster vermiculite mix. I'm using woodland scenics medium ballast, and wetting it with 70% isopropryl alcohol, and glueing it down with a 3/1 glue/water mix with a trace of dish detergent.

Fast Tracks and Homabed/Homasote
Ok, so maybe I am doing something wrong here... I've built a few #6 FT turnouts, and they work beautifully when I hold them in the air. There is no binding and the points throw with ease. When I spike them to the homabed or homasote and hook them up to my Tortoise (.32 throw wire), the points stick in both directions. I know that the Tort is positioned correctly because I have a jig that I put together.
Has anyone else run in to this problem? If so, what did you do to correct it?
Thanks,
Ryan

Opinions on Kato HO track kit
Hello All
I am considering getting started in Model Railroading with this track kit.
http://www.katousa.com/images/unitrack/3-0680.jpg
I am a newbie and starting from scratch. I realize this isn't the least expensive way to go but it is supposed to be quick and easy to set up and to modify.

Bad track bad - make it good!
When Coalfinger Ken was over with the NCIOG group he was running his steam engine on the layout and discovered a REALLY bad track area on the uphill side of the plate girder bridge. Notice below that there is a big gap between the bottom of the level and the rail.

Adventures in Track Weathering
Trackwork: Better options?
Let's face it, our current commercial track selection is pretty poor. Atlas and Walthers track lack the fine spike and tie plate detail that I am looking for, plus, the rail profile for both track types are complete wrong. Peco's Code 83 track system is much better than the previous two. The rail profile is very fine, and close to the prototype. Also, the flextrack exhibits decent spike and tie plate detail. The turnouts are also very nicely detail, however, at almost $40 a piece, they are cost prohibitive for all but the wealthiest modelers.
Turnout
A friend wanted a turnout for his new module, code 70, 2922mm radius (115'') for the main as well for the diverging track, Y-style.
Well, I've made a AutoCAD drawing and prepared the ties, 4 1/2 hours later: here you're:
And he wanted an "under the ties" throwbar.
Wolfgang
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