Benchwork and roadbed

rblundon's picture

How would you do modular?

After going to Trainfest and seeing what can be done with modular style construction, I decided that since I didn't have a track plan yet, I could start with a couple of modules to see what I am capable of.  One of the groups at the show had a layout that is both NMRA and Free-mo compliant (so to speak).  They have either Free-mo ends or NMRA ends and have transition sections to get from one to the other.  The group is Northwest Trainmasters for those who are curious and want to know more.

Question for anybody who uses lauan roadbed

If you've used lauan for roadbed (not subroadbed), how did you bevel it?  Router?  Hand sander?  Or did you not bevel it at all?  Just curious.

 

Bluesssman's picture

Hand laid rail

I will be hand laying all of my rail (I enjoy the process) and years ago used Homasote for my roadbed. I have read the thread on using homasote and gained good advice. However, only one place in Reno seems to handle homasote and they only want to sell to contractors. In the homasote thread, a product called fiberock was mentioned and I wonder if it has worked for anyone.

So my question is what would you recommend for roadbed when hand laying rail?

Thanks,

Gary

CarterM999's picture

Track Laying Square i.e. JL&T Railroad Blog - Track Laying & Scenery...

Been reading the post of JL&T Railroad Blog - Track Laying & Scenery and a question keeps coming up and not answered, ..so here goes.

Blue Foam

Just to let you guys know in my area (Azusa California). The LOWES at the corner of Azusa Blvd and Arrow Hwy has Blue Foam in 3/4, 1" and 2". They have stacks of it. I was really shocked. It is the first time I have seen it any where other than the valley. If you need some there you go. This is as of 11/12/11.

I hope this is a standard and not an anomaly.

Jim Lowery

Ontario Eastern's picture

Wood what is better...

I am looking at a very tight train budget and being on said budget and wanting to get started on my layout, what is better to use...Pine or spruce.  I have used spruce before, I just don't like the the wood splitting on me-even after pre-drilling.  I am going with a 1x2 frame work with plywood on top then styrospan foam (blue/pink).  But it is the wood that I need to start with, but again the budget...

Why Is benchwork such a mess?

Everytime I go down to the basement I am forced to look at my benchwork. And every time I the same thought comes into my mind: How can get anything done in this mess. There are tools, materials and all sorts of other paraphernalia covering almost every inch of space. Am I the only one with this problem?

kleaverjr's picture

Has anyone used a so called "invisible hinge" for a swing bridge?

A while back I had considered using an actual door for the entrance to move the sections of track that need to cross over it.  After listening to all the feedback I no longer consider that an option.  So I am left with designing my own solution to move the now two decks simultaneously and keep alignment when it is "closed".  

LKandO's picture

Valance Positioning

I started this new thread to keep Rob's backdrop thread from being further hijacked by my valance questions.

Joe, looking at your images and reading the text... Valence bottom edge height I get the feeling the "windows" to your layout are somewhere between 7" and 12", correct? Your upper valance bottom edge distance from floor is less than your personal height, correct?

LKandO's picture

Let there be light... or not

I am planning ahead for when I get to the lighting installation point for my double deck layout. It seems I have encountered a conundrum. A 15A circuit was pulled for the layout lighting during the basement finishing. Doing the math now it seems that will not be sufficient. Local code states a lighting circuit can be loaded to 80% of capacity. That effectively makes my 15A circuit a 12A circuit.


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