glueshell 2

kh25's picture

so how do you actualy do glueshell? do you dip the paper into the glue or do you brush it on? do you use straight glue or do you add water? I have found articles discussing the benefits but not the actual techniques
Thank you

glue shell start

You'll need:

cardboard strips (lots)
hot glue gun & glue sticks
clothes pins (use as simple clamps)
red rosin paper
white glue (lots) - maybe have a cheap plastic container to pour some glue in to make things easier
cheap wide paint brush or two

Weave cardboard strips into landform as desired (use hot glue & clothes pins clamps)
Cut and hot glue red rosin paper to landform - overlap seams
Paint glue directly onto paper with brush (be generous with the glue)
Let dry
Your done the basics. Now you can paint, add ground cover and so forth as needed.

Make sure you cover track and other things before starting the process.

 

Rick G.
​C&O Hawks Nest Sub-division c. 1951

One more tool: Beanbag or

A weight to hold top layer down wen dealing with  irregular shapes... can also load a drawstring bag with BBs or bird shot... just a pliable shape that is heavy.  

The glue at overlapped seams is more effective when pressed together.

- regards

Peter

kh25's picture

how many layers of kraft

how many layers of kraft paper should be use, would one layer be strong enough um using the kind from the dollar tree

Mark Kingsbury

layers

I've always used one layer of paper - though its always been the red rosin.  I'm not too sure about the 'toughness' of low cost paper as compared to red rosin type.  You might want to use two layers just to be on the safe side.  If you are not happy you can always add more.  One thing to note, as you add ground over and such the overall strength of the scenery base will increase as you are adding more glue as a binder.

 

Rick G.
​C&O Hawks Nest Sub-division c. 1951

paper is made and sold

By weight. As in lbs per 100 (or 1000) square foot.

It also can be smooth or have a "tooth"

Rosin paper has tooth... Where I used it, it's 2-3 layers thick.
I still have most of the first roll I bought, but I'm not done yet.

Cheaper paper can be easily punctured and may collapse while you give it form.

(get the rosin paper, not expensive, strong enough, eaay to work with...)

- regards

Peter

kh25's picture

hardness

so ones the glue is dry and it does not seem to be as hard as it should putting another layer on will help?

Mark Kingsbury

kh25's picture

glueshell 2

blah next time i will follow the advice of using clothespins for clamps cuz hot glue is HOT!

Mark Kingsbury

Yes... more = stiffer

kinda like plywood, but done with paper.

My experience was that triangular paper with 1 or 2 folds was easier to arrange int the desired terrain... and a second (or third or fourth) layer made it sufficient.  MOST of my 'glueshell' is 2 layers... more near the fascia.

- regards

Peter

rickwade's picture

Mark,  please consider

Mark,  please consider wearing a pair of dish washing gloves when using hot glue as they will protect you from burns.

Rick

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

jimfitch's picture

I went a little crazy "raster scanning" cardboard strips

I went a little crazy "raster scanning" my cardboard strips but never burned myself too badly.  Might be worth getting some latex gloves for next time.

I have to say, the glue hard shell method sounds more messy than the plaster gauze method, which I used.  If you buy large rolls off of Amazon, like the Activa, it is much cheaper than from the MR companies.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

 


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