Dave,

We need more information.

Have you decided on an era?  Would you rather run modern equipment, or would you prefer the transition period?

Could you post a diagram of the room?  Knowing the location, and width, of doors and windows would be helpful.

Have you considered a shelf layout around the room?  A shelf layout would allow for a wider minimum radius on your curves and would make better use of the space.

Another consideration; will the room be used for anything else?

If I had that room to put a layout in, and that was the only use for the room, I would go with a shelf layout that goes around the room.  I would used a lift out section for the entrance.  I would probably go transition era so that I could use shorter rolling stock and first generation diesels.  This assumes that you stay with HO.

I hope this helps, and the answers to the above questions would help us to provide better answers to your post.

Vernon

Dave,

I see two questions in your post; and two problems to address.

The first is design.  Vernon's response is a good one.  We need more information on what you want to see, what's your vision.

Second question sounds like a reliable operation problem.  Again, more details would help.  Here's a list that you can pick at. 

NO brass rail.  Use nickel silver (NS) rail only.  Brass oxidizes readily and the oxide does not conduct electricity.  NS also oxidizes, but will still conduct. 

Clean track and clean wheels, not only on the locos, but on the rolling stock.  Any dirt or grime can be spread by any wheel set. 

Track, and especially switches, must be in gauge.  Here's one of the discussions about switches, that will give you some insights:   http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/2324?page=3     I've dropped you into page three of a discussion thread, but there's lots of good stuff all through the thread.

Rail joiners do not conduct electricity from rail to rail reliably over time.  They become loose and collect tiny amounts of dirt or grime that do not conduct.  I solder adjacent rails at the joiner, and then I run feeder wire to each pair of rail sections.  Every 6 feet of rail (or less, depending on the track layout) is fed by 16 or 18 ga. wire (minimum).

By all means, give us more details and questions.  There's a wealth of knowledge among those in this forum, and all are delighted to help a fellow model railroader in any way possible.

.

Dave Welcome (back?) to the wonderful world of model railroading!!  You have come to the right place! Some of the best there are can be found here.  Can I recommend a few things for you.  This beginner sight is one many have found useful http://www.chipengelmann.com/trains/Beginner/BeginnersGuide01.html

Then there are these amazing - must have for your DVD collection series from our founder

http://model-trains-video.com/index.php

One of the co conspirators of our founder has some layout design info on his site

http://s145079212.onlinehome.us/rr/layoutdesign/index.htm

There are many others that will come along so check back often for updates.

Again welcome!

Stebe

Dave,

What is it you mean by "can't get the trains to operate properly"?

• Are they not staying on the tracks?
• Are they stalling?
• Do they not run at all?
• What type of equipment are you attempting to run?

Cheers,

Charlie Comstock

Dave posted a similar problem back in November of 2009.  He never added any info to the thread or posted to say his problem was resolved.  I guess he has been unable to make any progress with his wiring problems thus far.  Hopefully he takes the time to provide a bit more info this time. [smile]

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/1848