Bernd,

The Hobbytown drive train wants to be level from the height of the motor shaft to the top of the gear tower.  Looks from the photo that the two bearings from the flywheels have dropped far below that level line.  With your capabilities I suspect you can reset the offending bearings an I suspect the noise and efficiency of the system would improve.

I replaced the wheels from the dummy calf (left) with wheels donated from a blue box U30 (right) that my son has played with a little too much.  After checking for continuity, the metal wheels will provide for added electrical pick up to help the powered SW7 get over the unpowered frogs in my yard.  The plastic wheels went back into the U30 for now as it is at the end of my list of locomotive projects. 

Thanks Tom. That's the way it came. Back then I didn't know enough. When I finally put a new motor in I'll straighten it out.

Let's not hi-jack "dcforbes" thread hear. I just wanted to add some info for him.

Bernd

Depending how deep in the project you wish to go, there are two very good magazine references to try to find for a reference. Look at Mainline Modeler issues of October 1985 and June 1996. They are outstanding articles in each right.
The 1985 is an article by Bill Darnaby on building a TR2 (NW2 cow-calf). It gives great insight on the modification of the trailing step area modifications. These are very helpful regardless if you are modeling a TR2 or TR4. It appears based on an Illinois Central prototype.
The 1996 is an article by Rick Gher on modeling the TR4 (SW7 cow-calf) based on the Belt Railway of Chicago prototype. This article gives insight on cab modifications, handrails , pilots and trailing step area modifications.
It all depends on how deep in a project you wish to go. After all it's your railroad. Have fun. I hope this gives you some help with your project. I plan on doing a Belt Railway of Chicago set myself someday.

Mike Logar

I have done a little bit of work on my SW7 cow and calf project.  First, I installed #28 plastic Kadee couplers using the bullseye drill jig from A-line.  This should take care of any shorting issues due to metal couplers being charged on blue box locos. 

Next, below, you can see the original Athearn blue box motor on top and then the Econo Kit for the Athearn SW7 from Alliance Locomotive products.  I have taken the two mounting pieces from the Athearn motor and have placed them on the replacement motor.

Here you can see the frame before modification.  The replacement motor's instructions seem to be quite good.  Also, you can see how I removed the flywheels from the original motor.  They will eventually be installed on the replacement motor. 

Here is the frame after modification.  It took a hacksaw, a grinder, and a file, and about 30 min to get to this point.  I see why people buy milling machines. 

Here is the replacement motor in place using the original Athearn mounts. 

Next on the list is ordering the NWSL 40" half axles, as well as some supplies like decoder wire, Labelle oil, and some Kapton tape.  I plan to use the calf to help with electrical pick up, does anyone suggest any micro connector as a plug between the cow and calf?  I'm open to suggestions. 

Very nice work. Looks like that new motor will work out fine. Yes, milling machines are nice, sometimes.

Bernd

Its been a while, but I have finally got it running. 

Here it is on my test stand (http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/12997) being broken in with straight DC.  I ran it forward for 15 minutes and backwards for 15 minutes to break it in.  It was also greased with Labelle oil and grease.

Here it is running at full bore.  At 20 volts DC it is only pulling about 0.3 amps.  Its looking pretty good. 

Here it is with the first successful test run on DCC.  I soldered the red wire to the uprights on the trucks.  The black wire was attached to the frame with a screw.  I drilled and taped a 2-56 hole and that is where the black wire goes.  The gray and orange wire were then soldered to the motor leads.  It ran well.  It should run even better after programing with decoder pro.

Here it is with the wires all taped up.  I have yet to decide what to do for lights.  Any suggestions?  I'm leaning toward LED's.  I would like to put one led in this unit and then one in the calf for going the other way.  I also would like to use the calf as power pick up as well. 

Doug,

Your SW7 project looks pretty good.  How are you going to connect the cow and the calf to use eight wheel pickup?

Dave

Bernd,..........Nice looking models, nice workmanship. Haven't seen this combo for 

quite a while, but then I live under a rock !!!

Thanks. Looking back at those pictures reminds me I need to get a new motor installed.

The color combination is New York Central's Pace maker colors, except I used dark gray instead of light gray. I liked the lighting stripe of the diesels so I added that to come up with that paint scheme.

Bernd