Dear LK,

I agree, if you have access to the "Big Boys Tools" to cut foamcore,
then assembling a "proscenium type" module would be much easier  

That said, it's the old cost VS effort issue.

- I could pay for a pre-printed pre-perforated version,
(presumably with the understanding that I'd be happy with the dimensions of the resulting module as stands.
My first personal foamcore module turned into "Brooklyn : 3AM", but it took actual physical "playing with it" evolution of the design and techniques to adjust the basic principles to the HO "Chicago Fork",
and I would not expect any "Pre fab" module maker to enable either to be built from one "pre fab" module kit)

or

- I could simply grab my trusty X-acto from my workbench, and DIY on the spot...

Along similar lines, I am aware of these guys
http://www.rrinabox.com/

who appear to:
- print on paper
- laminate to foamcore
- cut out the pieces
- and assemble

Now, for myself, I struggle with the idea of a module with no backscene or lighting rig,
(again, I tend to think in terms of self-contained modules, coming from the Live Event/Pro Sound industry),
but it might work for those who don't want to "design and build their own"...

LK, any rough figures on what it would cost to draw up and have the "$100 module"
http://www.krmodels.com.au/module.html 
(or similar dimension-adjusted design) printed/cut from stock 40" x 60' x 3/16" foamcore?

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS It wasn't Illustrator, but I have drawn various Foamcore module designs up in MSWord for planning purposes at 1/5th or 1/10th "full size",
printed them out of regular printer paper thru my Epson inkjet printer,
laminated the print-outs to cereal-box cardboard,
and assembled them as scale mockups,
when trying alternative designs such as concave/convex curved modules...
(The next frontier, compound 3D curved backdrop/ceiling structures from matteboard...)

Illustrator produces vector artwork which is what is needed for the cutter. Cutting charge is based on time. Many cuts take longer than a few cuts to a sheet. Usually the majority of the cost is the Sintra board not the cutting. I have never had foamcore custom cut. Usually any project worthy of custom cutting is not meant for one time use. Foamcore in the trade exhibit business is strictly one time use stuff. Too easily damaged.

If you can calculate the square footage of board needed and the total number of individual pieces to be cut I would be happy to inquire about the cost with our vendor. 

Jim Sacco, of City Classics, uses Sintra for modeling roads. He put a clinic on about it in Milwaukee last year and will be presenting it again in Sacramento. Very interesting stuff with some different - desirably different - properties than straight styrene.

I'll be trying to attend it agin this year.

Rather than being named after HMS Dreadnought I thought they were named because their shape is like that of a battleship (also known as Deadnoughts) as seen from above (wide with narrow ends).

I would have to disagree with Jeff Shultz that you can't program an address in OPS mode.  I just did this yesterday on my own layout.  I had 2 locomotives that were brand new and were on the default address of 3.  I set them on the track individually and selected loco #3.  From here I programmed CV17 and CV18 with the loco number and then programmed CV29 to 50 to activate the 28/128 speed step table and turn off Analog Mode Conversion and finally to activate the 4 digit address that I had just put into the loco. 

I now have two completely programmed locomotives and they never once touched a programming track. Here is a link to a CV calculator that will give you the values to put into CV17 and CV18.  I have to give credit to Tony's Train Exchange for this link:  http://ruppweb.dyndns.org/xray/comp/decoder.htm

It worked great for me and I will use it again in the future.  So as you can see it is very easy to program in OPS mode.

Thanks,
Tom Schwarz

I think Jeff meant that you can't program the base 2-digit address CV in ops mode.

Best regards,

Charlie

I would have to guess that is what he is referring too but by saying CV(s) it infers a 4 digit address.  Just wanted to let people know that programming a decoder address on the main is possible. 

Also, I don't know many people that use a 2 digit address.  :)

Back to the basement I go.....

Tom

Dear Prof Klyzlr,

What are the expansion/contraction properties of a good foamcore product?....I assume you have lots of experience with that 3A product you use most extensively??

I am wondering about attached my track directly to a 3/16" thick foamcore that would cover the entire surface of my 3/4" plywood deck, then using a sharp razor to cut out various shapes under certain structures and scenic areas that it might be desirable to remove temporarily to work on in a more open environment.

A major concern is how the track might remain exactly as laid. After all most apparent track expansion/contraction 'problems' is NOT the track itself, but rather what the track is attached to.

Anytime someone mentions foamcore I can't help but also think of Sintra board. It may have an application here also.

Alan

I discovered the same thing a number of months ago. I was continuously getting confused about what specific product was being discussed with the term 'foamcore'. That's when I identified 'foamed PVC'

http://ttps://www.acmeplastics.com/expanded-pvc-foam?st-t=adwords&vt-k=%2Bxpvc %2Bsheet&vt-mt=b&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Materials&utm_term=%2Bxpvc %2Bsheet&utm_content=PVC Foam

and it appears almost totally waterproof

I would not suggest the black version as it appears to warp,...the white does not to much of a degree. If you do a search on this forum for 'foamed PVC' you will like fine more.

I must say, I'm terribly disappointed that the links seem to be broken due to some sort of revamping of the site, perhaps.  I did send an email to the website owner, but don't know if they were taken down previously or what.

I do want to explore this non-wood avenue more fully, especially since the price of wood here in the PNW (and likely elsewhere) has skyrocketed.  Admittedly, I'm not aware if something similar has occurred with the foam core.

I am concerned with matters of securing track.  I've read that gluing is the only way with foam, that spiking is not an option.  That's a bit disconcerting for me.

Have to be off...

Cheers,
Evrim

I must say, I'm terribly disappointed that the links seem to be broken due to some sort of revamping of the site, perhaps. I did send an email to the website owner, but don't know if they were taken down previously or what.

Prof, it looks like many of the links you posted are now dead. Can you revisit your posts and update the links or rewrite your post to remove references to dead links that are permanently dead. Also, what about doing some way back machine lookups and doing some screen grabs and posting those as a way to recover truly dead content?

Can you look into that, please? Given we're porting all these great posts to the new site as well, any updates to fresh relevant links will go forward for posterity ... at least until they break again!

Whoa.  I didn't notice at first but most of the posts in this topic are ten years old!

Dear Joe,

Wow, honestly didn't realise that this was 10-years gone... ;-)
(strangely enough, most of the layouts shown/linked-to are still in active service,
thus I submit that Foamcore, even under "dripping-wet-on-wet" scenery technique conditions,
has documented longevity of at-least a decade here on MRH... ;-) ).

Links "relinked" as much as possible, inc both "source of materials" and "layout examples" info.

I hope this helps!

Happy Modelling,
Aiming to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Dear Evrim,

I am concerned with matters of securing track.  I've read that gluing is the only way with foam, that spiking is not an option.  That's a bit disconcerting for me.

As far as Foamcore is concerned, spiking using PECO SL14 track pins is very much do-able,
reliable, and capable of surviving many 1000s of actual kilometres touring-duty without issue.

In my "handlaid track" examples, using hand-cut balsa ties/sleepers,
I subscribe to the ethos that spiking is a "team sport",
skimping on spikes is a self-forfilling prophecy for "rails which can be ripped-up easily".
The more spikes that are contributing friction-force to hold the rail down, the less likely it is that reasonable evels of abuse/force will be handled without issue.
(ANY rail/track anchoring system can be made to "fail" if the abuse-applied is "brute-force and ignorant" enough...)

As far as using commercial flex/turnouts is concerned, I use PECO SL14 trackpins with PECO HO gauge Code 75, 83, and 100 trackage, maybe one spike every few inches, and have yet to experience a failure. Even moreso once bonded (PVA glued) balllast is in place. Pls check back on the "$500 Layout" HO version of "Chicago Fork" for one example.

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2013-09-sep/layout-chic...

On my current layout build, I decided to give "glued track" a go, and have bonded PECO Code 83 and 75 track to foamcore and EVA foam using regular Acrylic Caulk (In my case, Selleys "No More Gaps" in grey). The basic technique was to skreed the NMG to a thin layer, then use cheap plastic "drawing pins" to hold the track down while the NMG was drying. Current example has been in-situ for over 2 years with no signs of any issue.
(FWIW Both Kalmbach "How to build Realistic Reliable Track" and the various postings by Lance Mindheim will give ample examples of "how to do this right" ;-)  ).

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Prof, thanks for the updates, much appreciated!

In reading though this thread, there's mention of your "spray bottle" but I confess I don't see any reference from you to a spray bottle anywhere.

Please help, what spray bottle are we referring to, and where is the reference to it? Why can't I find it?

Hi.

I’ve installed servos to move my switches, with piano wire up through the table going through the holes in the (Peco N scale) throw bars. On the N scale switches, the holes are on the outside of the track, rather than between the rails, like on HO. While fitting the servos, I left the piano wire an inch or two long, and now it’s time to cut them down to their final length. I wanted to put a slight bend in the piano wires so they don’t slip out of the throw bar. How do I do that without putting undue pressure on the switch and possibly damaging it? Or do I even need to put the kink in at all? Can I just cut the wire down with my Dremel, leaving it slightly higher than the top of the throw bar? Thanks for your help.