Trackwork

Extending wires on Atlas N scale remote switch machines

I'm using Atlas code 80 turnouts with Atlas remote switch machines. I need to somehow extend the 3 tiny wires that come off the machines. It looks like the wires are around 30 guage. I thought about soldering spade connectors to the tiny wires and using terminal strips, or possibly even soldering  larger wires to the tiny ones. I've tried to find someone that makes micro-connectors but it's difficult. I need to get the wires neatly across my layout and to my control panel. Any ideas would be great!

soldering track

Is it possible to resistance-solder section track (I have HI Kato Unitrack) so as to maintain current flow for DCC operation?

rblundon's picture

Helix Construction Question

 I'd like to get some opinions from the experts! (Other than not to build a helix... ;) )  I'm building a helix with track radii of 29 3/4" & 32".  It's going to have 8 1/2 turns with an additional on/off ramp for the outer track in the middle.

Here's where I'd like some input.  I'm putting C100 track directly on 3/4" Birch Plywood.  Should I solder every rail together, or every other rail?  Also, if I solder every rail, how many feeders would I need to put on?  I'm thinking one per turn.

Thanks in advance!

ceo eerielackamoneyrr's picture

new update

So, It's been qui

Artarms's picture

turnout points

Pondering a shift to N scale I have been experimenting with laying turnouts in code 55.  It is my first experience with soldering to PCB ties and I find the change a good one.  I have not bought any Fast-tracks tools yet but am using their rail and ties.  I think they have revolutionized the hobby and will contribute greatly to the growth of n scale because of the ease of making good track.

Mainline, Interchange, Sidings & Spurs - Rail codes and roadbed profiles. Where, When and Why?

OK, I have decided I will use ME non-weathered track on my HO layout.  I was getting ready to order a bunch of code 83 flex track and rail for turnouts, when something Charlie Comstock wrote in another thread came to mind.

Charlie's post reminded me of the different rail sizes (codes) that are available.  I can choose between code 100, 83, 70, and 55!  So many choices...what to do?

Thinking about the codes also reminds me that the sub roadbed profile often changes between say, mainline and spur tracks, but what goes where?

ME Track - Which to buy?

I've decided that the ME track looks so much better than Atlas that it is worth the difference in price to have ME.

I have heard that ME flex is harder to work with than Atlas flex.  I have also heard that this is even more of a problem with the ME weathered track.

It seems to make sense to buy the track weathered because the price is not much higher and all that work is done for you.  However, will I be sorry for buying weathered track?

Any advice or opinions are appreciated.

Location of Block Sub-Buss Connection

What is the preferable location for the connection of the block sub-buss?  Is it one end, in the middle or whatever is physically convenient?  Is one better than the other?  In my case, the blocks won't be more than about 8 feet in length.

Doug

What About Contact Cement?

Anyone have experience using contact cement to lay cork over a plywood base?  I've done it over a small area and it seems to work ok.  However, I don't have any long term experience with it.  Does it hold over the long run?

Doug

LIONEL TRACK OXIDATION

I recently bought some Lionel Track and switches that were left outside (not by me) in rainy weather.

The track seems to have little rust but is badly oxidized.  I was told sandpaper or emery cloth is the best method for getting the stuff off.  If I used metal polish (such as is used for hubcaps, would I be doing damage to the electrical current in the track?


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