Lighting
I am in the process of re-building a layout to replace the one I lost when my house burned down. I wanted to have a shadowbox effect to an around the walls layout with a center peninsula sticking out. We used CFL 6,000K bulbs in conjunction with Halogen under counter lights for warmth. They Halogens dim for dusk to dark effect. We noticed a problem when we were partway done around the peninsula that I have read others having-you could see the lights inside the valance on the peninsula when standing along it's edge. The valance couldn't come down any further as it would block the scene and make working on the layout very uncomfortable. We came up with the idea for baffles painted flat black as a block for seeing the lights. It seems to work very well except for short people. I guess I'll get them a box to stand on!! Pictures are attached which should be self explanatory. When I get some time, I will start a blog about the layout and it's progress.
Peter
Here's a few shots of the portability of the modules.
Moderator edit: changed the images from attachment to inline.
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Fast Balls
Thanks for the well wishes and kind words. Honestly, 40 years ago I couldn't throw a fastball! I just want to be able to reach out with my right arm and work over my head again. It's going to drive me nuts to just point and watch, but hey I have to fix it, it's useless this way. One day at a time has worked for me before.
Besides, I'll have a lot of time for blogging and you guys will be sick of me in no time...................!
Peter
Hidden Lights
Peter, I have used rope light in a valance. Not on the RR, but in other applications. They come in a variety of lengths,colors, can be dimmed and only require one outlet and a dimmer switch box for control.
John
Merrill, WI
PS: Seeing your photos makes me do that : MAN! Why didn't I do it that way!?"
Not too late
If you're talking about the baffles, get some 1/8th inch masonite and flat black paint and go to town!!
P
sloping the benchwork
No, I meant the slope, and I have a kregs too!
John
Merrill, WI
Kregs
The Kreg is great timesaver and it saves a lot of wood and weight by eliminating the overlaps. I honestly think the slopes are probably not worth the extra work, especially those corner pieces. One can get the same effect using higher risers on the tracks toward the rear. Once the scenery is in place there really is no difference in the apperance.
Peter
Learned something new from this
Well, I thought I had read all I needed to read from this post, but upon looking at the two replies immediately above, I was really confused. Now I know what a "Kreg" meant - it is the Kreg pocket-hole jig made by Kreg Tool at:
www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jig-Accessories-Prodlist.html
I was wondering how those weird looking holes were made for the joining screws - now I know. Thanks for the enlightenment.
Bill D.
N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.
Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.
Keep on trackin'
Sorry to disagree
Sorry to disagree with everyone here, but I dislike the sloped benchwork. Unless all you're planning is a "railfan" type layout with trains running along the front edge of the layout, I see plenty of issues with the sloped benchwork. How do place buildings, industries along the rear of the layout? Any siding or spur going to a building behind the mainline must go uphill. Will cars want to roll downhill and back onto the mainline? The enitre layout will have the same upward sloping scenery - potential very dull or boring.
You're carpentry skilss in your benchwork and impressive. While your benchwork modules look quite nice, they seems to be a great deal of over engineering and overkill. The pocket screws are great for building bench work. I have one of the Kreg jigs and love the results you get with it. It looks like form the pictures that you've built a base section and then also build a box or frame section that attaches to it. Seems like a lot of wood and a lot of unnecessary carpentry. WHile I think you talked about how you built in modules and would be able to move it, with the lighting and valence that's in place, I'd so the layout is rather permanent.
I look forward to seeing how your experiment with sloped benchwork turns out, but I think you've boxed yourself in with too many restrictions (pun intended).
Time saver
Bill, the Kreg is a time saver and it helped my carpentry work come up a notch. BTW, you do not have to use their screws.
John
Merrill, WI
The Kreg Jig is a Fantastic Tool
I have the Kreg K3 Master System and it helps Me with constructing train tables and My cabinet work too. For those of you that have that extra $375.00 I recommend getting one. actually I think they Kit was only $150.00 for the set but I bought a ton of the special screws of different sizes around 40 pounds of them.
Dan
Rio Grande Dan
OSB
I used OSB for a parcel box in my open porch. I sealed it well, and it gets wet occasionally. A builder friend said it wouldn't last, well it has been there over ten years with no sign of deterioration! and I've done no work to it since building.
Didn't think of using it for a layout though. Mind you it doesn't appear to be cheaper than ply over here.
Mike Ruby