"I've seen cut bars, etc. but how could you use them to work. Has anyone done such a thing"

I've used scale couplers with cut levers in O scale but they are a pain to install and keep working reliably. I've seen HO cars with wire installed on Kadees so one just pushed the wires to open the couplers, I can't recall exactly how the wires were installed, maybe someone else recalls? .... DaveB

You are just a forward thinker. I’d heard about the idea below so bought some pager motors to try a DIY version. Not “simple” but could definitely be hands free or very simply activated. Operation could be a DCC throttle. Instead of using a decoder in freight cars, a capacitor - or keep alive - could be used that chafes from truck contacts and triggered with a cut lever micro switch, reed switch under or over the car using a wand similar to the Soundtraxx SoundCar. 

The same idea of pulling open the coupler face might also be done manually. I’m also curious what others have done.

Remote Uncoupler for Kadee / Conversion Kit for DCC control - HO scale (2pcs)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252323120425

In HO RIX sells a magnetic uncoupling tool. Good for Kadee couplers. Put a little slack between cars and the tool spreads them.

DrJolS

Dr JolS: I and friends are aware of the RIX. But it's a tool you have to carry around. Or have a few laying in various places on the layout. Not ideal. The same problem as with picks, etc. Magnetic ramps are a huge problem. The Kadee ones are code 100 and to fit on code 83 track, require cutting, etc. Again, not ideal. The idea by Neil is neat, but don't look too easy to install. The original Kadee prior to magnetic was possible because it was a simpler design. The ideal thing would be something easy to install and easy to use.

Dear MRHers,

At work right now, and my usual Search-foo isn't firing on all cylinders, but I seem to recall a modeller adding brass-rod "whiskers" to Kadee, which stuck out just proud on the car sides. Bring thumb + index finger down either side of the coupled gap, press the ends of the brass rods, and couplers open....

...IIRC there was even an overhead pic showing the system...

Will advise if I refind as recalled...

Happy modelling,
Aiming to remember/search better,
Prof Klyzlr

Posted by Az - click on the photo for the link. 

I looked at the photo posted above, and then followed the thread. It has every photo from the top. Can we see a side a bottom photo of the coupler? Can we see where the wire is attached?  Thank you. 

Now that's a great idea. Yes, more pictures would be nice. Is it soldered? Or would super glue hold it in place? Looks like what I discussed with the friends. Really quick and easy to install. I might suggest a blob of solder on the finger end so that your fingers don't get sore. ? Hmmm! How about a hat pin? A tiny bead on the end. Super glue the tip to the top of the knuckle. Another idea now that I see this. Try attaching that wire to the bottom, so that it only shows below the coupler. Another thought is if the coupler is plastic, heat the pin and stick it in the knuckle. ?? Always think outside the box. Great things have come from great ideas from great thinkers. And model railroaders are the McGivers (sp) of the world.

" a blob of solder on the finger end so that your fingers don't get sore. ?"

  One could bend the end down a bit to look like cut levers but they'd be on the wrong side of the car(probably why this scheme never took off?) ......DaveB 

I'd guess fat fingers pressing in from the side would be even more likely to break details on the car sides/ends than clumsy fingers twiddling a pick.