Depends on the ply. Some of the cheaper big box store ply has glues that REFLECT the laser beams causing all kinds of cutting issues. The better the ply like baltic birch cuts well and as said above requires you to set the speed to match the material. My local lumber center (not HD) is now stocking the thinner sheets of baltic birch, 1/16 through 1/2 inch in 1/16 increments. I have the same FS as shown above, it now has been used over 1,200 hours and still cutting away. Russ
Was experimenting with burning holes in styrene yesterday, with encouraging results.
Firstly, expanded styrene foam (1/2" EPS foam) I rastered and then cut out a stone wall section, approx. 4" x 13".
Here is a sample, I'm still working on the colouring.
I took a page out of Ray Dunakin's book and imparted some texture to the foam by beating it with a rock! A technique that even I can master ; )
My friend Ray Clifford has had good results with styrene with his laser so I figured I'd give it a try.
Here's the first piece (second attempt) It's about 1.25" sq. .060" styrene. The "muntins" are .040" wide
This is as good an image as I can get with my camera, plus it is under packaging tape as I tape samples into a binder then write down my settings so I can repeat things.
There is a slight ridge around the piece, seen here on the source material. (you can see remnants of my first try at the bottom)
A slight buff with some 400 grit sandpaper and the ridge comes right off, it seems to have a very tenuous bond to the parent material.
I've found that if I keep the speed and power fairly high and do several passes I can minimize the meltback. (it's about .005" - .010" as compared to .003" - .006" for a comparable thickness of chipboard.
I'm sure that if I played around a bit more I could tune things in a bit better yet, ran out of time though. But it proves that you can get useable results with styrene.
As a graphic artist I'm always a little leery about sharing files and images due to copyright and improper use issues. Plus as far as laser files are concerned I don't want to see my unique buildings on a whole bunch of layouts.
That being said, the rock image is fairly nondescript and is based on a free CG Texture file anyway so I'll share the jpeg.
The image can be tiled to make it any size you need. As for laser settings, that will be different for every machine.
I have been using a Epilog Zing 30 watt 12 x16 bed. .More expensive than Chinese. The back up and customer support for me a novas to this world of High teck was worth the extra $ . Pluses my money stayed in north America , Styrene was some of the first materials I cut windows with mullions down to .020 no problems. use Corelx6 program which was user friendly for a old guy to learn they have a student version that will do all you can ask of it..! 1/4 ply is the max I have cut and use 100% and 2 passes. I'm becoming a convert to laser board I'M HAPPY that I made the plunge , it has extended my modeling and the buildings, cars, acessories I have created.REGARDS RAY
I have an old 1200 Pen Plotter which still works but which I no longer use. It's stored away in a cupboard and it's probably going to die there if I don't find a use for it. I was wondering if it would be possible to convert it to hold a laser tip?
I know the Laser requires some sort of cooling and quite a lot of power but that should not be too much of a hassle.
I would like to cut thin sheets of Styrene, standard PC Board (for turnout ties and circuit boards) and, maybe, some thin wood - about 1/8".
Comments
Depends on the ply. Some of
Depends on the ply. Some of the cheaper big box store ply has glues that REFLECT the laser beams causing all kinds of cutting issues. The better the ply like baltic birch cuts well and as said above requires you to set the speed to match the material. My local lumber center (not HD) is now stocking the thinner sheets of baltic birch, 1/16 through 1/2 inch in 1/16 increments. I have the same FS as shown above, it now has been used over 1,200 hours and still cutting away. Russ
Laser
Hi all
nice to see all the laser guys coming out
perhaps Bill or one of the experienced forum members can create a laser section
drawing sharing etc
that FS machine looks good and 1200 hours of cutting is very good
what do they cost I the US
Here is a picture of mine
60watt 700 x 500 bed
Unboxing after it arrived at work 4 days after ordering in August
Craig Hepburn
Perth Australia
Laser cutting styrene
Was experimenting with burning holes in styrene yesterday, with encouraging results.
Firstly, expanded styrene foam (1/2" EPS foam) I rastered and then cut out a stone wall section, approx. 4" x 13".
Here is a sample, I'm still working on the colouring.
I took a page out of Ray Dunakin's book and imparted some texture to the foam by beating it with a rock! A technique that even I can master ; )
My friend Ray Clifford has had good results with styrene with his laser so I figured I'd give it a try.
Here's the first piece (second attempt) It's about 1.25" sq. .060" styrene. The "muntins" are .040" wide
This is as good an image as I can get with my camera, plus it is under packaging tape as I tape samples into a binder then write down my settings so I can repeat things.
There is a slight ridge around the piece, seen here on the source material. (you can see remnants of my first try at the bottom)
A slight buff with some 400 grit sandpaper and the ridge comes right off, it seems to have a very tenuous bond to the parent material.
I've found that if I keep the speed and power fairly high and do several passes I can minimize the meltback. (it's about .005" - .010" as compared to .003" - .006" for a comparable thickness of chipboard.
I'm sure that if I played around a bit more I could tune things in a bit better yet, ran out of time though. But it proves that you can get useable results with styrene.
Rick Reimer,
President, Ruphe and Tumbelle Railway Co.
Read my blogs
Finished rock
As a quick note, I added some mortar to the lasered rock wall. and played with the colour a bit.
I'm not 100% happy with the colour yet but the overall texture is looking good.
Rick Reimer,
President, Ruphe and Tumbelle Railway Co.
Read my blogs
Rock
Hi Rick
how about sharing your file?
have not done any engraving with my laser yet
Craig Hepburn
Perth Australia
Sharing files
As a graphic artist I'm always a little leery about sharing files and images due to copyright and improper use issues. Plus as far as laser files are concerned I don't want to see my unique buildings on a whole bunch of layouts.
That being said, the rock image is fairly nondescript and is based on a free CG Texture file anyway so I'll share the jpeg.
The image can be tiled to make it any size you need. As for laser settings, that will be different for every machine.
Good luck!
Rick Reimer,
President, Ruphe and Tumbelle Railway Co.
Read my blogs
Laser
I have been using a Epilog Zing 30 watt 12 x16 bed. .More expensive than Chinese. The back up and customer support for me a novas to this world of High teck was worth the extra $ . Pluses my money stayed in north America , Styrene was some of the first materials I cut windows with mullions down to .020 no problems. use Corelx6 program which was user friendly for a old guy to learn they have a student version that will do all you can ask of it..! 1/4 ply is the max I have cut and use 100% and 2 passes. I'm becoming a convert to laser board I'M HAPPY that I made the plunge , it has extended my modeling and the buildings, cars, acessories I have created.REGARDS RAY
Sharing files
thanks Rick
that looks interesting
having just started drawing with cad- using Rhino I have not worked out how to draw anything but lines
will have to go scratching in the program
Craig Hepburn
Perth Australia
Sharing files
Hi Rick
the rock image is fairly nondescript and is based on a free CG Texture file
Ok I found free cg textures and all their photos so how do I convert one of their photos to a drawing like yours
Craig Hepburn
Perth Australia
Is it possible
Hi Guys,
I have an old 1200 Pen Plotter which still works but which I no longer use. It's stored away in a cupboard and it's probably going to die there if I don't find a use for it. I was wondering if it would be possible to convert it to hold a laser tip?
I know the Laser requires some sort of cooling and quite a lot of power but that should not be too much of a hassle.
I would like to cut thin sheets of Styrene, standard PC Board (for turnout ties and circuit boards) and, maybe, some thin wood - about 1/8".
Any ideas or suggestions?
Cheers,
Neville Young
'Old Goat'