Brush Painting
I have to paint some small plastic detail parts for a structure I am building. When I moved 5 years ago I made a decision to toss my paint collection, something that I had collected over 20 years. I wanted to start fresh. Now that I am back into modeling, I regretted that the moment I saw that Testors killed Polly S and Floquil. I like solvent based paints for airbrushing and am going to try TruColor in the next few weeks. However, I need something that is Acrylic that I can use with a brush at my desk. I tried using Testors Enamel paints in the tiny square bottle but the thinner for cleaning brushes is offensive to my (and my family's) nose. I was thinking of craft paint but that seems a little thick in the pigment department and I hear it doesn't stick well to plastic. Any thoughts?
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Greg
We just had a new hobby shop open up here in Saskatoon (actually the former owner of the other hobby shop decided to get back into it for some reason). He is carrying a full line of Vallejo paints now, which is awesome for me. I'd be happy to pick you up a few and mail them to you if you like, which should save you shipping and other charges from the US. Just contact me off list if interested.
Dave
Building a TOMA HO Scale '70s/80s era
GMT-6
Why not artist paint?
I often see paint discussions here that focus on craft paint and hobby store paint, but there seems to be a general disregard for artist paint, which is widely available on line and in local artist supply stores. (The LASS seems to be in resurgence compared to the LHS.)
I can get a 60 ml tube of Windser & Newton Galeria for $3.44, which works out to six cents per ml. This is compared to $2.79 for a 17ml bottle of Vallejo, nearly three times the cost. Add to that the fact that I dilute the W&N about 2 to 1 for spraying, the cost difference becomes very persuasive. Even if I go for the high end paints the calculations favor W&N. Craft paints that sell in the 2 oz bottle for $1.50 vs diluted W&S is pretty much a wash (pun intended).
Of course, the W&N does not come in named colors, so mixing is required, but that is not difficult. In fact it simplifies life since a dozen colors will meet all of my needs. I have a book with color charts that tells me where to start, so I don't waste paint experimenting. If I do mix too much, it keeps for a while in the little air tight cups also for sale at the LASS.
I can see where a specific prototype may require a consistent color like SP yellow, and craft type makes sense when gallons are needed for ground cover, but I am puzzled by the resistance to high end paint for critical jobs. Have I missed something?
pqe
Familiar
I don't think you are missing anything. It is likely just familiarity. Modelers tend to buy from the modeling service channels.
Consider how many folks pay $1.79 for an hobby packaged LED that can be had at an electronics supplier for $0.18.
Alan
All the details: www.LKOrailroad.com Just the highlights: MRH blog
When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
"but I am puzzled by the
Probably folks just don't want to learn how to use a new paint line as long as they can get something they are familiar with? I use a lot of artist paint because it's easy to get but if they were still selling polly scale down at the mall I'd probably never learned how to use the artist's paints. I like the Golden acrylics with the built in eye dropper cap because I mostly paint with a color cup and can squeeze out a few drops easily. ....
DaveB
Read my blog