Lee Nicholas has used an all-metal, sprung ground throw design on his layout for over a decade that is easy-to-use and durable. They've been off the market for years but have been recently re-introduced by a new company, Bitter Creek Models. I have several in service on my own layout now. See http://bittercreekmodels.com/page11.html

Up close, they're a little odd looking but they're so low-profile that in practice they blend beautifully into scenery, you don't really notice anything but the red throwbar tip. Definitely less obtrusive than the big square handles on the Caboose throws, and the metal throwbar has a more satisfying feel than Delrin, as it 'locks' into position on either side.

You can power the frogs, if desired, with Hex Frog Juicers or an embedded micro-switch.

Not associated with the company, just a happy user.

This column is very useful, as it is every month. Thanks to billso. I am going to check out those throws. I will be sure to mention MRH if I get the chance.

Thanks again,john

These products are great and they are oversprung so the points are held very tightly to the stock rails.  Very nice.

I want to use some sort of manual throw for turn outs on my layout and had pretty much decided to go with Caboose Industry ground throws even though they are way out of scale, and in my experience, not very robust at all.  Those metal ground throws from Bitter Creek look like just what I need!

Has anyone used the bitter creek turnouts in N scale? I e mailed the company but have not heard back. I know they would be over sized but so are the caboose. They look like they would have a lower profile.

Thanks John

I read all of the links provided in the article, but still no satisfaction after modifying the #6 turnouts as suggested.

I called Caboose Hobbies and their tech told me I didn't have to do anything; Kato turnouts are DCC friendly.

What I did find made me realize that I didn't have to do anything; Kato turnouts are well engineered, and they offer a feature I didn't anticipate.

If you align the points with the track your are going to, you will have no problems. If you don't your DCC system will short and reset. To ensure that the points are correctly aligned, my brother and I installed homemade signal flags next to the turnouts, and activated them [turned them the way of the points] by connecting the flag to the small manual lever on each turnout. So if the flag is pointing with the route your want, fine. If not, switch the turnout. No more shorts, and we're using stock track with no modifications.

Also, for each siding, we isolated each small section of track right before each turnout and switched one leg of it so we could ensure that any train coming up to the main line would stop before going into the turnout the wrong way, or entering the main without the yielding right of way. Cool feature.

I also learned in this exercise that it was easy to make your own power feeders. I made $100 worth of them in 2 hours one night, and that includes layout installation time. The Kato power feeders are $4 per pair. I also learned much more about the subtleties of N Scale Kato Unitrack. I should write an article....lol

Peace!

Dan

Has anyone used the bitter creek turnouts in N scale?

Not personally, but it's been done.  They don't look any worse in N than Caboose throws.

Thanks Rob. I wonder why they did not respond to my email? It kind of sends up a red flag. Anyone have had problems with them?

John

I know the guy who owns Bitter Creek Models, and have for probably over 20 years.  I wouldn't worry about doing business with him.  You can't always trust that an e-mail actually went through.  Try again, or call.

Dear MRHers,

Never had any issues with CI throws personally in over 20 years active use, although I do use the N scale ones (216S) for HO/On30 (PECO and handlaid) and the HO scale ones for O scale 2R SG (Handlaid). Mounting them via Wire-in-Tube such that they are at the layout fascia/edge makes access easier, (no operators reaching into the scene), and doesn't require them to be "in visual proximity" of the turnout itself.

Never had a CI throw (or the turnout they were connected to) break either,
under regular 3-day show-layout operating conditions... YMMV

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS Might be worth checking out

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/5337

Bitter Creek owner is on the road to train shows regularly so give him a week or so.

Osborn models makes working prototypical ground throws.

http://www.osbornmodelkits.com/HO_scale_railroad.htm

Near the bottom, product RRA-1059 or RRA-1060 10 packs $10 CDN.

Also available in N scale.

Osborn models makes working prototypical ground throws.

http://www.osbornmodelkits.com/HO_scale_railroad.htm

Near the bottom, product RRA-1059 or RRA-1060 10 packs $10 CDN.

Will_Annand,

Those are operating ground throws?

If so, 10 for $10 seems like a very good deal, IMO.

Do you know how close they are to being in scale?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Interesting product that's new to me, but the price appears to be $9.99 CDN. I don't see "10 for 10" on the web page.

Rob and Tom, thanks for the info. I will send another E. mail to bitter creek and wait a bit.

thanks ,john

Interesting product that's new to me, but the price appears to be $9.99 CDN. I don't see "10 for 10" on the web page.

Here is what Derek Osborn of Osborn Model Kits had to say in response to my email today asking for information.

Hi Kevin

The HO switch stands are as close to 1:87 as possible, the biggest problem is the turn outs aren't. The stand is a bit wider to accommodate this, but unless you are going to get out your scale to measure it no one is going to know. They are designed as a static unit but there have been some people that have made them work.

 Yes, that’s 10 for $10.00

Regards
Derek Osborn
www.osbornmodelkits.com

I, too, have W/S Code 83 turnouts, many of them curved, and I am using the CI throws.  In general, I agree with Tom's approach; however, I have not found the need to put styrene under the throw-rod or to enlarge the hole.  For a base for the ground throw, I use pieces cut from ties removed from scrap flex and a non-functional turnout.  I place them parallel to and outside the existing headblock ties.  I anchor the throw with Atlas track nails which are very secure in my Homabed and Homasote (no glue).

For what it's worth, I found that the N-gauge throw works with the non-curved turnouts, but for best results, I use the N/HO with a .170" throw (#218S).  Another exception to that is on a #6 curved turnout, I had to use the standard HO .190" throw.  All throws are sprung.

Dante